A Glimpse of the Enoshima Cliffs

Once I reached the top the narrow lane, lined occasionally with inns and private houses, continued. There are a lot more sites of interest, a modern Buddhist temple, the Observation Tower, to mention but a few. While walking on I caught a glimpse of the impressive cliffs of the island which have inspired ever so many artists since centuries.

Nakasunomiya

The path to the sacred sites has improved tremendously since the late 19th century. Several more flights of stairs and a meandering lane leads slowly further up the hill. At the end of a path between impressive stone lanterns donated by famous Kabuki actors of the Edo period, you come to the second building of the Enoshima Jinja. Nakatsunomiya ( Shrine at the middle) dating back to 853, was rebuilt in the 17th century and remodelled in 1996 . The bright beautiful vermilion wooden Jinja enshrines Ichikishimahimenomikoto, the same goddess as in Itsukushima, Miyajima



Carvings of the islands ubiquitous totems, the dragon and the turtle are rich embellishments to the lintels.

Hetsunomiya

At the end of the shopping mall a wooden torii and a steep flight of stairs leads up the sacred hill. On the first level overlooking the rooftops of the island you can view the yachts mooring beneath in the harbour built in 1964 for the 18th Olympic Games in Tokyo. All along the path donated stone monuments indicate the prosperity of the pilgrims to the holy island or hint at the mystical character of this home of gods and other supernatural beings.

A dream in a dream: if I ever happen to be in Japan for Hatsumode, I would visit Enoshima Jinja which actually consists of three separate shrines, each dedicated to one of the goddesses of the sea.

At the top of the first terrace the main Shrine of the Jinja, Hetsunomiya (Shrine on the Edge) which enshrines Tagitsuhimenomikoto, goes back to the early 13th century and was only rebuilt in 1976:



There is a certain way you should pass through the huge ring of thick cogon grass and circumvent - a rite of purification before approaching the main hall. The octagonal Hoanden, next to it houses one of the three most famous statues of Benten in Japan:




The goddess, patron to music, fine arts and literature, who descended from the heavens to fight a dragon is also popular as the only women out of 七福神 , the Seven Gods of Good fortune.

Lafcadio Hearn on his visit to Enoshima in 1890 lamented that he was unable to see the image of Benten. When Buddhism and Shintoism were syncretized the originally Buddhist goddess was venerated on ground demarcated by torii. But when Shinto was purged of Buddhist elements in late 19th century the famous statue was gathering dust in storage.

Enoshima

Enoshima, the holy island, sacred to the goddess of the sea, known for pilgrimages for centuries is still popular for family outings nowadays. As for us Europeans the Eiffel Tower, Enoshima seems to be a major tourist attraction for the Japanese. But strangely enough none of my modern guidebooks has -if at all- any satisfactory information about this small island. Perhaps most Western tourists do not reach past Kamakura. Having read Lafcadio Hearn's "Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan" I was determined to follow his "Pilgrimage to Enoshima" - and I did not regret it.

In his days you had to watch the tide to cross over to the island which is now attached to the mainland by a causeway. But as soon as you walk through the entrance of Enoshima, the weathered Bronze Torii, you feel familiar with the place.


Just as Lafcadio Hearn describes it, the street leading up to the shrines is "lined with taverns and shops" and all of them invite you to stop and call.

Enoden Line

With just over 24 hours before departure from Japan I decided not to follow my early 20th century guide, Lafcadio Hearn faithfully. I did not stop at Kamakura, not even for Dai Butsu, one of the most famous sights of Japan, the great Buddha. Instead, the little 2-car electric train of the Enoden Line, a private railway, took me in less then half an hour to Katase-Enoshima Station. What a change from the days of jinrikishas...

無 MU

There was another reason for visiting Kamakura: As I mentioned earlier, I am a great admirer of Yasujiro Ozu. The very influential Japanese director died in 1963 and his remains were buried at Engakuji. I was hoping to be able to pay my respects. By chance on my way out I passed a sign pointing to the cemetary and so I found myself soon wandering among the graves. It was not an easy task as the graves bear no names, only characters which I could not read. I was prepared with a picture of Ozu's grave, but there were far too many. The graveyard is laid out on different levels and I had no idea whether the lower parts consisted of more recent burials or whether there was no such a rule. Still I gave not up but decided to walk up a little more. Down the steps came a Japanese gentleman who seeing this strange Western woman among the gravestones knew what I was looking for. He asked: "Ozu?", I nodded and with the same kindness which I had experienced everywhere in Japan he guided me to the grave.
The square granite block bears beautifully carved the character 無 MU, meaning nothingness, a deep thought in Zen buddhism. A bunch of flowers, and some more traditional Japanese drink offerings to the departed conveys the deep reverence for the late master of Japanese films.

Engakuji

On my last day in Japan I was following once more the footsteps of Lafcadio Hearn and the first stop on my "pilgrimage to Enoshima" was Kamakura.
Once the seat of the Kamakura shogunate and therefore literally the capital of Japan, Kamakura offers a rich cultural heritage with many famous shrines and temples to visit.
Only a short distance from Kitakamakura Station I passed what remains of the White Egret Pond "byakurochi" and climbed up the stairs through the gate and so from everyday life into a sacred world.
It was too early on monday morning for the crowds of visitors and, although a little dull, I enjoyed my stroll through the large wooded grounds immensely. Engakuji is one of the finest examples of Zen-buddhism with a beautifully laid-out symmetrical design and impressive structures of reed covered roofs and untreated wood. The massive nailless Sanmon shows great craftmanship as does the beautifully carved Karamon. The Butsunichian mausoleum which offers matcha tea appropriately bears another literary reference as the setting for the scene of Yasunari Kawabata's novel, A thousand Cranes "Senbazuru". Climbing a long flight of steps I reached the belfry of the famous bronze bell, which chimes only once a year on the evening before the New Year. A group of young school children surrounded this national treasure, posing for pictures gestureing and laughing loudly. I took a short rest to look down through the woods. before descending again.

Omiya 3

It was dark by now so we could only get a glimpse of the major Shinto Shrine through the gate but I always felt that the twilight in Japan puts a magical spell on the scenery.
When Kahori suggested a trip to the bamboogrove I jumped for joy at the prospect of seeing at long last what I had missed. The three of us walking happily composed the winding paths between the tall thin trees of the dimly lit local park was beyond my expectations.





Kahori is an honest young woman and did not spare the dark side of her home town. In a short detour on the way back to the station she pointed out to us noisy nightclubs and various other seedy amusement centers.

All is well that ends well. Heavily loaded with my purchase I arrived back in Tokyo late but very happy. This was my second last day before departure...

Omiya 2

While I sipped at my tea a young Westener entered. He greeted Keiko in Japanese and sat down quietly on the tatami flooring. From then on things developed rapidly. James was obviously the friend also invited to the Shrine. We were soon deep in conversation when the phone rang announcing Kahori travelling back from a tea ceremony lesson in Tokyo and in exchanging our experiences about Japan, time did not seem long in waiting. As soon as Kahori entered my spirit was lifted, all clouds were blown away and the sun sent down a big smile. She is a very special person leaving a strong impression on everybody. Her presence spreads beauty and calmness and makes you feel at ease. We took part in a tea ceremony before setting of to Hikawa Shrine by car as it was late.

Omiya 1

Like many visitors to Japan I was looking for a Kimono. While preparing for my trip I learned about a Kimonoshop in Omiya.
Back home, since I first contacted Kahori Ochi, I knew that this was the place to go. This may sound strange as one can find second hand Kimonos everywhere in Japan, mostly of good quality and at a reasonable price. But whoever met Kahori will understand how I was charmed by this young ambassador to Japanese culture. I made arrangements to see her when I would be in Tokyo and on my arrival I was invited to join her and an American friend on Sunday afternoon for a walk to Hikawa Shrine. I was much looking forward to this and ofcourse changed my plans for the day accordingly. By planning everything meticulously I was able to see a lot of Japan during my 15 days stay but everytime I altered my plans something special happened. Japan is a magical country indeed...
So straight from an afternoon stroll along the Ginza I travelled by Shinkansen to the city of Omiya just 25 km to the North of central Tokyo.
For once I had no problem to find Sakaeya from the stadion, the map was carefully drawn. But when I arrived with great hopes I was at first very puzzled as Kahori was not there. I was in good time to choose and try on the garments, only Mrs. Ochi, the mother, insisted that Kahori was not at all coming today. Keiko Ochi is a very lovable person but with her limited knowledge of English and my non-existing Japanese we were both at a loss. I took my time to choose a fine kimono for myself and my daughter and while my purchases were folded and the bill processed I was offered a cup of tea. I must have shown my disappointment as the granddaughter was asked over the phone to help and translate.

Shichi-go-san

At Senso-ji I saw many children beautifully dressed in traditonal Japanese Costume visiting with their families the temple to thank for the first 7, 5 or 3 years of their young lives and pray for their future.

Senso-ji

Next I visited Tokyo's oldest Buddhist Temple located in Asakusa, one of the most popular temples. Once through the imposing structure of the "Thundergate" (Kaminarimon) I was strolling along Nakamise-dori, a straight 250 m long street leading to Main Hall, lined with up to 90 shops selling souvenirs and produce of Japanese crafts - a living tradition going back to times when pilgrims walked all the way to Senso-ji.
It was as busy as on my previous visit to Nikko, but I did not mind. The people were here not so much to admire the grand setting but to follow their daily ritual and to worship. Crowds around the incense burning Joukoro were fanning the smoke which is considered to be healthy to whichever part of their body is in need.



Within the inner complex of the temple there are stalls selling OMIKUJI. For a donation you can consult an oracle on a small piece of paper.



I watched a young couple reading out to each other the divine answers, with a giggle now and then, and tongue in cheek. They were pretending not to take it serious but are anchored in Japanese tradition nevertheless.

Lively coherence

Tokyo is a fine example of the lively coherence of modern and traditional ways of life which I found everywhere in Japan.
The next day was a sunday but the metropolis was bustling as usual. I went to Shinjuku and was inevitably amazed by the hight of the skyscrapers and their architectural beauty.
Only a few stops away, back on the train to Ueno, I was steeped into historical Tokyo. Once built as a temple town in the Edo period, the neighbourhood of Yanaka with many small wooden buildings in traditional style still retains the charm and warmth of the past. I took a walk around the narrow lanes and discovered the former house and studio of Fumio Asakura, a well known Japanese sculptor (1883-1964), now a museum and well worth a visit.

let me continue...

It is quite a while since my last posting, one of the reasons is maybe that I do not want my trip to end...

A happy ending to the day

It was dark by the time I finished my delicious meal. More than satisfied I walked to the station at Matsushima Kaigan passing various booths offering a variety of barbecued shellfish to the passer-by.




I sincerely hope to be back again in this charming place.

Language problems...

The further away from the major cities the more you feel lost no to understand Japanese. My experience was however that this is never a real problem, the Japanese are very kind and try their utmost to help.
At the fish-restaurant in Matsushima kaigan I was given a menu card, the letters were Japanese and Romaji but the language was still Japanese! There were pictures to help, but I wanted a dinner with Sasakamaboko as one course so I had to order a la carte...
To order a Miso soup seemed simple enough until the waitress tried to find out what kind of soup I wanted, She pointed out the different ingredients, which did not mean anything to me, still she wanted me to make a choice although I would have tried with pleasure any of them. Once she saw that the written words did not mean anything to me she started to make drawings of at least 3 different types of shellfish but I was just as much puzzled. Now the Chef entered and tried his very restricted English on me. I am sure they would have thought of other means to help me understand, but I decided to put an end to it, I knew I would enjoy any of them. I pointed to the first name on the menu, and this is what I got:

Fish dinner

Travelling to Matsushima kaigan for the sunset maybe extravagant but this was topped by an excellent fish dinner by the sea.
The oyster-season had just started in Japan:



But I was looking for something different: Matsushima is known for the best fishing grounds around Japan and one of the specialties of the Miyagi prefecture is Sasakamaboko, a fish paste made with high-grade fish, processed into paste and then roasted in the shape of a bamboo leaf.

Matsushima Kaigan

Matsushima Kaigan is definitely one of the 3 most scenic places of Japan, a port by the sea looking out towards a bay dotted with more than 200 pine covered islands.
I arrived about an hour before sunset and walking by the shore I crossed the bridge to Godaido, a small islet not far from the pier. The tranquility of the Shinto shrine was by far more to my liking than the celebrated Temples of Nikko.

Short trip North

I always wanted to see as much as I could of Japan but you are restricted where you can go during a 15 days' visit. I was curious to go North but the most northerly place I visited so far was Nikko. Therefore Nikko which did not come up to my expectations was the starting point for my travelling extravanganza. With my JR travelpass I changed at Utsunomiya to the Shinkansen line and passing by a more hilly countryside I reached Sendai within the hour. From there I took a local train to Matsushima Kaigan.

Eki

Since I had no idea where the bus would stop, I walked back the straight road to the station which is only about 20 Minutes away.
The station itself deserves some attention as its elegant wooden building is noted to preserve the Romanesque atmosphere of the Meiji period. It was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1915 and remains the oldest operating station of JR East.

Shin-kyo

Down at the bottom of the hill is the Shin-kyo which spans vermilion lacquered gracefully across the River Daiya. According to legend a hermit was helped by two snakes to cross the high waters of the river.
The "Snake Bridge" is considered one of the 3 finest bridges of Japan, its simple elegance contrasts with the wildness of the river gorge, the tumbling waters and the multicoloured autumn foliage of the wooded hills in the background.
In feudal times only the emperor was allowed to use it. Nowadays you pay an admission fee for the sacred bridge if you wish to cross rather than by the modern bridge nearby.

Nikko...

My trip to Nikko the following day was disappointing...
To begin with it was a rather dull day and choosing a Saturday in early November was a big mistake. Many Japanese families celebrate "shichi-go-san", by visiting famous Shrines with their children of the appropriate age to thank for their good health and pray for their safe future. The place was crowded...
As soon as I arrived at the station I was pushed into a bus not knowing were it would take me. Nikko, a World cultural heritage is certainly a beautiful and highly artistic ensemble of Shrines and Temples but I felt like when in the Louvre the hustle and bustle around the Mona Lisa spoils the pleasure to view the famous painting.
Different to Himeji Nikko did not seem to care for Non-Japanese visitors and unless you consulted your guidebook you were lost among all the Japanese signs. Although I had bought a combination ticket for the various Temples having been among the crowds at the Toshu-go Shrine I turned my back on the other celebrated sites - I learned later, that it was quiet higher up the hills but I certainly had enough.

Lost in Tokyo

I have to admit I did not take to Tokyo. Maybe the metropolis does not represent the Japan I was looking for, maybe I was just tired after touring Japan extensively, or 4 days in Tokyo - most of them spent traveling to places outside - are just not enough.I think you have to be young to get the feeling for Tokyo and you should not travel on your own.
To begin with, my hotel was reasonably priced, comfortable and conveniently located within walking distance to Ueno station. My accommodation was spacious with even a private Japanese bath, a tatami room, but without much what I had grown to like, there was no alcove and the pictures on the walls were of the same style as you can find everywhere in the world. Self-service-breakfast was complimentary, so I do not want to comment on the food, but I disliked much the polystyrene bowls and dishes you had to use. This was such a different world from the care and pride with which food was served in any of the other places.


But the most shocking experience at the beginning of my stay in Tokyo was that I found myself lost. Soon after arrival I left the hotel for Ueno Park being given at reception a map with detailed landmarks such as Macdonalds and big department stores. I had struggled before with maps but when returning after dusk I obviously missed one of the landmarks and could not find my way. I asked a lot of people but they were all commuters rushing to get their trains home. They were kind enough to stop but could not help me as they were not living in the area. I tried an office building but the receptionist was not any wiser. Eventually a young lady seeing my distress turned and guided me around a few blocks until she could see me safely walking through the Hotel door.
I am still most grateful for her kindness...

On the way to the Metropolis

My journey took me from rural Gifu once more to the highly populated Pacific coast of Honshu, changing in Nagoya from the enjoyable Hida Wide View Ltd Express to the fast but very smoothly running Shinkansen.
It was very comfortable and the high speed was only noticeable as the scenery was flashing past the train window. Suddenly I saw a huge mountain over topping majestically everything : 富士山 . I was very excited about this most unexpected sight, not so my Japanese neighbour who after confirming that this was Fujiyama indeed continued reading his sport's magazine.

Nakabashi at night

Back at Takayama after a splendid trip to the mountain village of Shirakawago I enjoyed once more a delicious dinner, my last Hida steak. Afterwards I went for a farewell visit to Nakabashi bridge which was beautifully illuminated in the night. The picture does not do it justice, my camera was not working perfect since my "accident" at Matsue...



It was pouring with rain during the night, but stopped when I left Oyado Yoshinoya for the station. With sadness I said my good-bye to the kind owners, mother and daughter, who came out of the house and followed my progress down the arcade of Yasugawa Street, seeing me off in the truly Japanese way...