Sunday 28 June 2009

無 MU


There was another reason for visiting Kamakura: As I mentioned earlier, I am a great admirer of Yasujiro Ozu. The very influential Japanese director died in 1963 and his remains were buried at Engakuji. I was hoping to be able to pay my respects. By chance on my way out I passed a sign pointing to the cemetary and so I found myself soon wandering among the graves. It was not an easy task as the graves bear no names, only characters which I could not read. I was prepared with a picture of Ozu's grave, but there were far too many. The graveyard is laid out on different levels and I had no idea whether the lower parts consisted of more recent burials or whether there was no such a rule. Still I gave not up but decided to walk up a little more. Down the steps came a Japanese gentleman who seeing this strange Western woman among the gravestones knew what I was looking for. He asked: "Ozu?", I nodded and with the same kindness which I had experienced everywhere in Japan he guided me to the grave.
The square granite block bears beautifully carved the character 無 MU, meaning nothingness, a deep thought in Zen buddhism. A bunch of flowers, and some more traditional Japanese drink offerings to the departed conveys the deep reverence for the late master of Japanese films.

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