無 MU

There was another reason for visiting Kamakura: As I mentioned earlier, I am a great admirer of Yasujiro Ozu. The very influential Japanese director died in 1963 and his remains were buried at Engakuji. I was hoping to be able to pay my respects. By chance on my way out I passed a sign pointing to the cemetary and so I found myself soon wandering among the graves. It was not an easy task as the graves bear no names, only characters which I could not read. I was prepared with a picture of Ozu's grave, but there were far too many. The graveyard is laid out on different levels and I had no idea whether the lower parts consisted of more recent burials or whether there was no such a rule. Still I gave not up but decided to walk up a little more. Down the steps came a Japanese gentleman who seeing this strange Western woman among the gravestones knew what I was looking for. He asked: "Ozu?", I nodded and with the same kindness which I had experienced everywhere in Japan he guided me to the grave.
The square granite block bears beautifully carved the character 無 MU, meaning nothingness, a deep thought in Zen buddhism. A bunch of flowers, and some more traditional Japanese drink offerings to the departed conveys the deep reverence for the late master of Japanese films.

Engakuji

On my last day in Japan I was following once more the footsteps of Lafcadio Hearn and the first stop on my "pilgrimage to Enoshima" was Kamakura.
Once the seat of the Kamakura shogunate and therefore literally the capital of Japan, Kamakura offers a rich cultural heritage with many famous shrines and temples to visit.
Only a short distance from Kitakamakura Station I passed what remains of the White Egret Pond "byakurochi" and climbed up the stairs through the gate and so from everyday life into a sacred world.
It was too early on monday morning for the crowds of visitors and, although a little dull, I enjoyed my stroll through the large wooded grounds immensely. Engakuji is one of the finest examples of Zen-buddhism with a beautifully laid-out symmetrical design and impressive structures of reed covered roofs and untreated wood. The massive nailless Sanmon shows great craftmanship as does the beautifully carved Karamon. The Butsunichian mausoleum which offers matcha tea appropriately bears another literary reference as the setting for the scene of Yasunari Kawabata's novel, A thousand Cranes "Senbazuru". Climbing a long flight of steps I reached the belfry of the famous bronze bell, which chimes only once a year on the evening before the New Year. A group of young school children surrounded this national treasure, posing for pictures gestureing and laughing loudly. I took a short rest to look down through the woods. before descending again.

Omiya 3

It was dark by now so we could only get a glimpse of the major Shinto Shrine through the gate but I always felt that the twilight in Japan puts a magical spell on the scenery.
When Kahori suggested a trip to the bamboogrove I jumped for joy at the prospect of seeing at long last what I had missed. The three of us walking happily composed the winding paths between the tall thin trees of the dimly lit local park was beyond my expectations.





Kahori is an honest young woman and did not spare the dark side of her home town. In a short detour on the way back to the station she pointed out to us noisy nightclubs and various other seedy amusement centers.

All is well that ends well. Heavily loaded with my purchase I arrived back in Tokyo late but very happy. This was my second last day before departure...

Omiya 2

While I sipped at my tea a young Westener entered. He greeted Keiko in Japanese and sat down quietly on the tatami flooring. From then on things developed rapidly. James was obviously the friend also invited to the Shrine. We were soon deep in conversation when the phone rang announcing Kahori travelling back from a tea ceremony lesson in Tokyo and in exchanging our experiences about Japan, time did not seem long in waiting. As soon as Kahori entered my spirit was lifted, all clouds were blown away and the sun sent down a big smile. She is a very special person leaving a strong impression on everybody. Her presence spreads beauty and calmness and makes you feel at ease. We took part in a tea ceremony before setting of to Hikawa Shrine by car as it was late.

Omiya 1

Like many visitors to Japan I was looking for a Kimono. While preparing for my trip I learned about a Kimonoshop in Omiya.
Back home, since I first contacted Kahori Ochi, I knew that this was the place to go. This may sound strange as one can find second hand Kimonos everywhere in Japan, mostly of good quality and at a reasonable price. But whoever met Kahori will understand how I was charmed by this young ambassador to Japanese culture. I made arrangements to see her when I would be in Tokyo and on my arrival I was invited to join her and an American friend on Sunday afternoon for a walk to Hikawa Shrine. I was much looking forward to this and ofcourse changed my plans for the day accordingly. By planning everything meticulously I was able to see a lot of Japan during my 15 days stay but everytime I altered my plans something special happened. Japan is a magical country indeed...
So straight from an afternoon stroll along the Ginza I travelled by Shinkansen to the city of Omiya just 25 km to the North of central Tokyo.
For once I had no problem to find Sakaeya from the stadion, the map was carefully drawn. But when I arrived with great hopes I was at first very puzzled as Kahori was not there. I was in good time to choose and try on the garments, only Mrs. Ochi, the mother, insisted that Kahori was not at all coming today. Keiko Ochi is a very lovable person but with her limited knowledge of English and my non-existing Japanese we were both at a loss. I took my time to choose a fine kimono for myself and my daughter and while my purchases were folded and the bill processed I was offered a cup of tea. I must have shown my disappointment as the granddaughter was asked over the phone to help and translate.

Shichi-go-san

At Senso-ji I saw many children beautifully dressed in traditonal Japanese Costume visiting with their families the temple to thank for the first 7, 5 or 3 years of their young lives and pray for their future.

Senso-ji

Next I visited Tokyo's oldest Buddhist Temple located in Asakusa, one of the most popular temples. Once through the imposing structure of the "Thundergate" (Kaminarimon) I was strolling along Nakamise-dori, a straight 250 m long street leading to Main Hall, lined with up to 90 shops selling souvenirs and produce of Japanese crafts - a living tradition going back to times when pilgrims walked all the way to Senso-ji.
It was as busy as on my previous visit to Nikko, but I did not mind. The people were here not so much to admire the grand setting but to follow their daily ritual and to worship. Crowds around the incense burning Joukoro were fanning the smoke which is considered to be healthy to whichever part of their body is in need.



Within the inner complex of the temple there are stalls selling OMIKUJI. For a donation you can consult an oracle on a small piece of paper.



I watched a young couple reading out to each other the divine answers, with a giggle now and then, and tongue in cheek. They were pretending not to take it serious but are anchored in Japanese tradition nevertheless.

Lively coherence

Tokyo is a fine example of the lively coherence of modern and traditional ways of life which I found everywhere in Japan.
The next day was a sunday but the metropolis was bustling as usual. I went to Shinjuku and was inevitably amazed by the hight of the skyscrapers and their architectural beauty.
Only a few stops away, back on the train to Ueno, I was steeped into historical Tokyo. Once built as a temple town in the Edo period, the neighbourhood of Yanaka with many small wooden buildings in traditional style still retains the charm and warmth of the past. I took a walk around the narrow lanes and discovered the former house and studio of Fumio Asakura, a well known Japanese sculptor (1883-1964), now a museum and well worth a visit.

let me continue...

It is quite a while since my last posting, one of the reasons is maybe that I do not want my trip to end...