さょなら

The following day a plane would take me halfway round the globe and I could start re-dreaming my dream again...


さょなら

Ginza

By the time the play finished it was dark outside. I strolled slowly to the subway, along an avenue towered by numerous buildings advertising the leading brand names in fashion and cosmetics. The bright and colourful Patchinko parlours tried to distract me, but after the wonderful experience of the Kabuki, I took in this modern part of Japan most consciously as one facet of a complex but very fascinating culture.

Kabuki

It is amazing how much you can experience on a special day when the hours do not fly by as usual but for once time seems enough for something else. My last day in Japan was such an exceptional day

Back in Tokyo, a quick refreshing bath and I was on the road again. My pilgrimage to Enoshima had been remarkable but another highlight was still to come, a performance of the Kabukiza theatre, on of the oldest and most traditional Japanese art forms.
When I located the theatre in the Ginza district a few days ago and learnt that this landmark of Tokyo's cultural life is under threat to be pulled down in order to give way to yet another high-flying commercial site I was determined to see a play.
A whole performance seldom lasts more than 3 hours and you can go and see just one act if you wait at the box-office for tickets during the interval.
A Kabuki play is usually about historical events or moral conflicts in love relationships. As the flyer handed out to me at the box office gave the gist of the act, I did not rent an English headphone but listened to the strange sound of the old fashioned language spoken with a monotonous voice and accompanied by traditional instruments. The choreography of the movements of the all-male cast adds to the drama of the play. Although I did not understand a single word I watched the whole act spellbound by the glamour, excitement and general extraordinariness.
Was I not lucky to find the true essence of Japan at the end of my visit?

Fishing

As I crossed the causeway to the mainland there were a few fishermen still out.
It was early November and although only mid afternoon the sun was not far from setting.
I walked the beach for a handful of sand to remind me in days-to-come of Enoshima and a very special day. There was a father and his two young sons, busy casting the line but their catch did not come up to their expectations.
The local train to Fujisawa was crowded with anglers heading back, they were sticking out with their long rods and small trolleys with more gear and hopefully some fish.
In Fujisawa travellers to the Metropolis change to JR trains. I only read much later that as early as a century ago a railway operated from here. How would pilgrims to Enoshima like Lafcadio Hearn feel when after covering quite a distance in a "kuruma" on rough rural roads they found themselves suddenly in the face of the most modern means of transport of their time.

Heading back

..."There is a charm indefinable about the place--that sort of charm which comes with a little ghostly thrill never to be forgotten. Not of strange sights alone is this charm made, but of numberless subtle sensations and ideas interwoven and inter-blended: the sweet sharp scents of grove and sea; the blood-brightening, vivifying touch of the free wind; the dumb appeal of ancient mystic mossy things; vague reverence evoked by knowledge of treading soil called holy for a thousand years."(Lafcadio Hearn)

I could not agree more, Enoshima is a special place which in all the hustle and bustle of modern days gives you still a feeling of old Japan.
It was time for heading back but not before I had a light refreshment in a small inn by the roadside.

Ryuren no Kane

The further up I walked on Enoshima the fewer people I met. When I turned left strolling through the Tatsunogaoka woods I was almost on my own. At the end of the lonely path through the trees which leads to a cliff overlooking the ocean, I found a pavilion with a bell built as late as the 1960s by the Tourist Association. Reading the noticeboard I was once more surprised about the richness in legend and spiritual history of the island. As the legend goes, once upon a time a bad dragon with five heads tormented the people of the prefecture. For many days dense clouds developed over the sea while heaven and earth quaked violently. Suddenly a heavenly maiden appeared, the clouds cleared and the island of Enoshima was born. No wonder the dragon fell in love and even proposed but was only accepted when we he changed his bad manners.
Nowadays the heavenly maid is worshipped as Benten and the dragon as Ryujin. This romantic site commemorates their love and is said to be very popular. When I approached it I watched a middle aged couple looking out to sea and ringing the bell together, so vowing each other eternal love.





I was puzzled to see hundreds of padlocks, with initials and messages all over, locked to the fence in front of the structure as I have never seen love locks before. This beautiful spot certainly inspires couples to attach them here as symbols for their love.

Iwaya Cave?

A little further and as the path splits I had to come to a decision. Enoshima is a small islet with only about 4 km in circumference. Sometimes called the Japanese Mont-Saint-Michel you have to climb up quite a few flights of stairs and walk along a winding path before you reach this point. How long would it take me to get back to the train station and how good was the connection between the local private service and JR? I had to be back in Tokyo not too late. As much as I would have liked to see the backside of the island, the famously depicted cliffs, the rocky shore with tidal pools and caves, the descend to Iwaya Cave, the residence of the guardian deity of the sea and weather, almost certainly would be steep and rough. Surely not as slippery as in Lafcadio Hearn's time but with "unearthly music and light", modern sound effects and light, the divine mood would be spoilt.
Another time - another dream...
Therefore I turned to the left.

Wadatsunomiya

Nearby a small cave-like building enshrines a dragon as pointed out by a wildly gesticulating species turned into stone. I am not sure about its relation to the legends of Enoshima. Is it Ryujin, the mythological dragon god of the sea to whom the faithful send prayers for their wealth?

Okutsunomiya

The third building of the Enoshima Jinja, Okutsunomiya (Shrine in the Depth), is situated further away in the Western part of the small island. It is believed to be an Otabisho, a resting place for the goddess Tagirihimenomikoto during the heat of summer.
The Torii at the entrance was donated by Minamoto no Yoritomo in 1182, the founder and first Shogun of the Kamakura Shogunate of Japan, a proof of the importance and antiquity of the site.
The Bronze Statue of Kengyo Yamada, to whom a special style of Koto music is related, reminds us that Benten, the goddess of the island, is also patron of music.
Legend tells of a giant, sacred turtle which inhabited the cave below the shrine. No wonder, the surrounding grove on Kinkisan, the "Hill of the Golden Turtle" is "turtle ground", a sacred stone and other features resemble one of the totems of Enoshima.



The brown and grey wooden structure of the Jinja rebuilt in 1842 blends harmoniously in with the green trees.
On the ceiling of the Shrine's divine gate Hoitsu Sakai, an artist of the Edo period, painted "Happo Nirami no Kame". What else but a picture of a turtle, a masterpiece, strange and unusual as the turtle, glaring in all directions seems to return your gaze, regardless which angle you look at it from.

A Glimpse of the Enoshima Cliffs

Once I reached the top the narrow lane, lined occasionally with inns and private houses, continued. There are a lot more sites of interest, a modern Buddhist temple, the Observation Tower, to mention but a few. While walking on I caught a glimpse of the impressive cliffs of the island which have inspired ever so many artists since centuries.

Nakasunomiya

The path to the sacred sites has improved tremendously since the late 19th century. Several more flights of stairs and a meandering lane leads slowly further up the hill. At the end of a path between impressive stone lanterns donated by famous Kabuki actors of the Edo period, you come to the second building of the Enoshima Jinja. Nakatsunomiya ( Shrine at the middle) dating back to 853, was rebuilt in the 17th century and remodelled in 1996 . The bright beautiful vermilion wooden Jinja enshrines Ichikishimahimenomikoto, the same goddess as in Itsukushima, Miyajima



Carvings of the islands ubiquitous totems, the dragon and the turtle are rich embellishments to the lintels.

Hetsunomiya

At the end of the shopping mall a wooden torii and a steep flight of stairs leads up the sacred hill. On the first level overlooking the rooftops of the island you can view the yachts mooring beneath in the harbour built in 1964 for the 18th Olympic Games in Tokyo. All along the path donated stone monuments indicate the prosperity of the pilgrims to the holy island or hint at the mystical character of this home of gods and other supernatural beings.

A dream in a dream: if I ever happen to be in Japan for Hatsumode, I would visit Enoshima Jinja which actually consists of three separate shrines, each dedicated to one of the goddesses of the sea.

At the top of the first terrace the main Shrine of the Jinja, Hetsunomiya (Shrine on the Edge) which enshrines Tagitsuhimenomikoto, goes back to the early 13th century and was only rebuilt in 1976:



There is a certain way you should pass through the huge ring of thick cogon grass and circumvent - a rite of purification before approaching the main hall. The octagonal Hoanden, next to it houses one of the three most famous statues of Benten in Japan:




The goddess, patron to music, fine arts and literature, who descended from the heavens to fight a dragon is also popular as the only women out of 七福神 , the Seven Gods of Good fortune.

Lafcadio Hearn on his visit to Enoshima in 1890 lamented that he was unable to see the image of Benten. When Buddhism and Shintoism were syncretized the originally Buddhist goddess was venerated on ground demarcated by torii. But when Shinto was purged of Buddhist elements in late 19th century the famous statue was gathering dust in storage.

Enoshima

Enoshima, the holy island, sacred to the goddess of the sea, known for pilgrimages for centuries is still popular for family outings nowadays. As for us Europeans the Eiffel Tower, Enoshima seems to be a major tourist attraction for the Japanese. But strangely enough none of my modern guidebooks has -if at all- any satisfactory information about this small island. Perhaps most Western tourists do not reach past Kamakura. Having read Lafcadio Hearn's "Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan" I was determined to follow his "Pilgrimage to Enoshima" - and I did not regret it.

In his days you had to watch the tide to cross over to the island which is now attached to the mainland by a causeway. But as soon as you walk through the entrance of Enoshima, the weathered Bronze Torii, you feel familiar with the place.


Just as Lafcadio Hearn describes it, the street leading up to the shrines is "lined with taverns and shops" and all of them invite you to stop and call.

Enoden Line

With just over 24 hours before departure from Japan I decided not to follow my early 20th century guide, Lafcadio Hearn faithfully. I did not stop at Kamakura, not even for Dai Butsu, one of the most famous sights of Japan, the great Buddha. Instead, the little 2-car electric train of the Enoden Line, a private railway, took me in less then half an hour to Katase-Enoshima Station. What a change from the days of jinrikishas...

無 MU

There was another reason for visiting Kamakura: As I mentioned earlier, I am a great admirer of Yasujiro Ozu. The very influential Japanese director died in 1963 and his remains were buried at Engakuji. I was hoping to be able to pay my respects. By chance on my way out I passed a sign pointing to the cemetary and so I found myself soon wandering among the graves. It was not an easy task as the graves bear no names, only characters which I could not read. I was prepared with a picture of Ozu's grave, but there were far too many. The graveyard is laid out on different levels and I had no idea whether the lower parts consisted of more recent burials or whether there was no such a rule. Still I gave not up but decided to walk up a little more. Down the steps came a Japanese gentleman who seeing this strange Western woman among the gravestones knew what I was looking for. He asked: "Ozu?", I nodded and with the same kindness which I had experienced everywhere in Japan he guided me to the grave.
The square granite block bears beautifully carved the character 無 MU, meaning nothingness, a deep thought in Zen buddhism. A bunch of flowers, and some more traditional Japanese drink offerings to the departed conveys the deep reverence for the late master of Japanese films.

Engakuji

On my last day in Japan I was following once more the footsteps of Lafcadio Hearn and the first stop on my "pilgrimage to Enoshima" was Kamakura.
Once the seat of the Kamakura shogunate and therefore literally the capital of Japan, Kamakura offers a rich cultural heritage with many famous shrines and temples to visit.
Only a short distance from Kitakamakura Station I passed what remains of the White Egret Pond "byakurochi" and climbed up the stairs through the gate and so from everyday life into a sacred world.
It was too early on monday morning for the crowds of visitors and, although a little dull, I enjoyed my stroll through the large wooded grounds immensely. Engakuji is one of the finest examples of Zen-buddhism with a beautifully laid-out symmetrical design and impressive structures of reed covered roofs and untreated wood. The massive nailless Sanmon shows great craftmanship as does the beautifully carved Karamon. The Butsunichian mausoleum which offers matcha tea appropriately bears another literary reference as the setting for the scene of Yasunari Kawabata's novel, A thousand Cranes "Senbazuru". Climbing a long flight of steps I reached the belfry of the famous bronze bell, which chimes only once a year on the evening before the New Year. A group of young school children surrounded this national treasure, posing for pictures gestureing and laughing loudly. I took a short rest to look down through the woods. before descending again.

Omiya 3

It was dark by now so we could only get a glimpse of the major Shinto Shrine through the gate but I always felt that the twilight in Japan puts a magical spell on the scenery.
When Kahori suggested a trip to the bamboogrove I jumped for joy at the prospect of seeing at long last what I had missed. The three of us walking happily composed the winding paths between the tall thin trees of the dimly lit local park was beyond my expectations.





Kahori is an honest young woman and did not spare the dark side of her home town. In a short detour on the way back to the station she pointed out to us noisy nightclubs and various other seedy amusement centers.

All is well that ends well. Heavily loaded with my purchase I arrived back in Tokyo late but very happy. This was my second last day before departure...

Omiya 2

While I sipped at my tea a young Westener entered. He greeted Keiko in Japanese and sat down quietly on the tatami flooring. From then on things developed rapidly. James was obviously the friend also invited to the Shrine. We were soon deep in conversation when the phone rang announcing Kahori travelling back from a tea ceremony lesson in Tokyo and in exchanging our experiences about Japan, time did not seem long in waiting. As soon as Kahori entered my spirit was lifted, all clouds were blown away and the sun sent down a big smile. She is a very special person leaving a strong impression on everybody. Her presence spreads beauty and calmness and makes you feel at ease. We took part in a tea ceremony before setting of to Hikawa Shrine by car as it was late.

Omiya 1

Like many visitors to Japan I was looking for a Kimono. While preparing for my trip I learned about a Kimonoshop in Omiya.
Back home, since I first contacted Kahori Ochi, I knew that this was the place to go. This may sound strange as one can find second hand Kimonos everywhere in Japan, mostly of good quality and at a reasonable price. But whoever met Kahori will understand how I was charmed by this young ambassador to Japanese culture. I made arrangements to see her when I would be in Tokyo and on my arrival I was invited to join her and an American friend on Sunday afternoon for a walk to Hikawa Shrine. I was much looking forward to this and ofcourse changed my plans for the day accordingly. By planning everything meticulously I was able to see a lot of Japan during my 15 days stay but everytime I altered my plans something special happened. Japan is a magical country indeed...
So straight from an afternoon stroll along the Ginza I travelled by Shinkansen to the city of Omiya just 25 km to the North of central Tokyo.
For once I had no problem to find Sakaeya from the stadion, the map was carefully drawn. But when I arrived with great hopes I was at first very puzzled as Kahori was not there. I was in good time to choose and try on the garments, only Mrs. Ochi, the mother, insisted that Kahori was not at all coming today. Keiko Ochi is a very lovable person but with her limited knowledge of English and my non-existing Japanese we were both at a loss. I took my time to choose a fine kimono for myself and my daughter and while my purchases were folded and the bill processed I was offered a cup of tea. I must have shown my disappointment as the granddaughter was asked over the phone to help and translate.

Shichi-go-san

At Senso-ji I saw many children beautifully dressed in traditonal Japanese Costume visiting with their families the temple to thank for the first 7, 5 or 3 years of their young lives and pray for their future.

Senso-ji

Next I visited Tokyo's oldest Buddhist Temple located in Asakusa, one of the most popular temples. Once through the imposing structure of the "Thundergate" (Kaminarimon) I was strolling along Nakamise-dori, a straight 250 m long street leading to Main Hall, lined with up to 90 shops selling souvenirs and produce of Japanese crafts - a living tradition going back to times when pilgrims walked all the way to Senso-ji.
It was as busy as on my previous visit to Nikko, but I did not mind. The people were here not so much to admire the grand setting but to follow their daily ritual and to worship. Crowds around the incense burning Joukoro were fanning the smoke which is considered to be healthy to whichever part of their body is in need.



Within the inner complex of the temple there are stalls selling OMIKUJI. For a donation you can consult an oracle on a small piece of paper.



I watched a young couple reading out to each other the divine answers, with a giggle now and then, and tongue in cheek. They were pretending not to take it serious but are anchored in Japanese tradition nevertheless.

Lively coherence

Tokyo is a fine example of the lively coherence of modern and traditional ways of life which I found everywhere in Japan.
The next day was a sunday but the metropolis was bustling as usual. I went to Shinjuku and was inevitably amazed by the hight of the skyscrapers and their architectural beauty.
Only a few stops away, back on the train to Ueno, I was steeped into historical Tokyo. Once built as a temple town in the Edo period, the neighbourhood of Yanaka with many small wooden buildings in traditional style still retains the charm and warmth of the past. I took a walk around the narrow lanes and discovered the former house and studio of Fumio Asakura, a well known Japanese sculptor (1883-1964), now a museum and well worth a visit.

let me continue...

It is quite a while since my last posting, one of the reasons is maybe that I do not want my trip to end...

A happy ending to the day

It was dark by the time I finished my delicious meal. More than satisfied I walked to the station at Matsushima Kaigan passing various booths offering a variety of barbecued shellfish to the passer-by.




I sincerely hope to be back again in this charming place.

Language problems...

The further away from the major cities the more you feel lost no to understand Japanese. My experience was however that this is never a real problem, the Japanese are very kind and try their utmost to help.
At the fish-restaurant in Matsushima kaigan I was given a menu card, the letters were Japanese and Romaji but the language was still Japanese! There were pictures to help, but I wanted a dinner with Sasakamaboko as one course so I had to order a la carte...
To order a Miso soup seemed simple enough until the waitress tried to find out what kind of soup I wanted, She pointed out the different ingredients, which did not mean anything to me, still she wanted me to make a choice although I would have tried with pleasure any of them. Once she saw that the written words did not mean anything to me she started to make drawings of at least 3 different types of shellfish but I was just as much puzzled. Now the Chef entered and tried his very restricted English on me. I am sure they would have thought of other means to help me understand, but I decided to put an end to it, I knew I would enjoy any of them. I pointed to the first name on the menu, and this is what I got: