Japan a dream come true

さょなら

2009-07-26T16:49:00.004+01:00

The following day a plane would take me halfway round the globe and I could start re-dreaming my dream again...

さょなら

Ginza

2009-07-26T16:26:00.003+01:00

By the time the play finished it was dark outside. I strolled slowly to the subway, along an avenue towered by numerous buildings advertising the leading brand names in fashion and cosmetics. The bright and colourful Patchinko parlours tried to distract me, but after the wonderful experience of the Kabuki, I took in this modern part of Japan most consciously as one facet of a complex but very fascinating culture.

Kabuki

2009-07-25T22:47:00.007+01:00

It is amazing how much you can experience on a special day when the hours do not fly by as usual but for once time seems enough for something else. My last day in Japan was such an exceptional day

Back in Tokyo, a quick refreshing bath and I was on the road again. My pilgrimage to Enoshima had been remarkable but another highlight was still to come, a performance of the Kabukiza theatre, on of the oldest and most traditional Japanese art forms.
When I located the theatre in the Ginza district a few days ago and learnt that this landmark of Tokyo's cultural life is under threat to be pulled down in order to give way to yet another high-flying commercial site I was determined to see a play.
A whole performance seldom lasts more than 3 hours and you can go and see just one act if you wait at the box-office for tickets during the interval.
A Kabuki play is usually about historical events or moral conflicts in love relationships. As the flyer handed out to me at the box office gave the gist of the act, I did not rent an English headphone but listened to the strange sound of the old fashioned language spoken with a monotonous voice and accompanied by traditional instruments. The choreography of the movements of the all-male cast adds to the drama of the play. Although I did not understand a single word I watched the whole act spellbound by the glamour, excitement and general extraordinariness.
Was I not lucky to find the true essence of Japan at the end of my visit?

Fishing

2009-07-23T19:30:00.003+01:00

As I crossed the causeway to the mainland there were a few fishermen still out.
It was early November and although only mid afternoon the sun was not far from setting.
I walked the beach for a handful of sand to remind me in days-to-come of Enoshima and a very special day. There was a father and his two young sons, busy casting the line but their catch did not come up to their expectations.
The local train to Fujisawa was crowded with anglers heading back, they were sticking out with their long rods and small trolleys with more gear and hopefully some fish.
In Fujisawa travellers to the Metropolis change to JR trains. I only read much later that as early as a century ago a railway operated from here. How would pilgrims to Enoshima like Lafcadio Hearn feel when after covering quite a distance in a "kuruma" on rough rural roads they found themselves suddenly in the face of the most modern means of transport of their time.

Heading back

2009-07-08T20:36:00.008+01:00

..."There is a charm indefinable about the place--that sort of charm which comes with a little ghostly thrill never to be forgotten. Not of strange sights alone is this charm made, but of numberless subtle sensations and ideas interwoven and inter-blended: the sweet sharp scents of grove and sea; the blood-brightening, vivifying touch of the free wind; the dumb appeal of ancient mystic mossy things; vague reverence evoked by knowledge of treading soil called holy for a thousand years."(Lafcadio Hearn)

I could not agree more, Enoshima is a special place which in all the hustle and bustle of modern days gives you still a feeling of old Japan.
It was time for heading back but not before I had a light refreshment in a small inn by the roadside.

Ryuren no Kane

2009-07-08T09:52:00.013+01:00

The further up I walked on Enoshima the fewer people I met. When I turned left strolling through the Tatsunogaoka woods I was almost on my own. At the end of the lonely path through the trees which leads to a cliff overlooking the ocean, I found a pavilion with a bell built as late as the 1960s by the Tourist Association. Reading the noticeboard I was once more surprised about the richness in legend and spiritual history of the island. As the legend goes, once upon a time a bad dragon with five heads tormented the people of the prefecture. For many days dense clouds developed over the sea while heaven and earth quaked violently. Suddenly a heavenly maiden appeared, the clouds cleared and the island of Enoshima was born. No wonder the dragon fell in love and even proposed but was only accepted when we he changed his bad manners.
Nowadays the heavenly maid is worshipped as Benten and the dragon as Ryujin. This romantic site commemorates their love and is said to be very popular. When I approached it I watched a middle aged couple looking out to sea and ringing the bell together, so vowing each other eternal love.

I was puzzled to see hundreds of padlocks, with initials and messages all over, locked to the fence in front of the structure as I have never seen love locks before. This beautiful spot certainly inspires couples to attach them here as symbols for their love.

Iwaya Cave?

2009-07-08T08:08:00.004+01:00

A little further and as the path splits I had to come to a decision. Enoshima is a small islet with only about 4 km in circumference. Sometimes called the Japanese Mont-Saint-Michel you have to climb up quite a few flights of stairs and walk along a winding path before you reach this point. How long would it take me to get back to the train station and how good was the connection between the local private service and JR? I had to be back in Tokyo not too late. As much as I would have liked to see the backside of the island, the famously depicted cliffs, the rocky shore with tidal pools and caves, the descend to Iwaya Cave, the residence of the guardian deity of the sea and weather, almost certainly would be steep and rough. Surely not as slippery as in Lafcadio Hearn's time but with "unearthly music and light", modern sound effects and light, the divine mood would be spoilt.
Another time - another dream...
Therefore I turned to the left.

Wadatsunomiya

2009-07-08T07:26:00.004+01:00

Nearby a small cave-like building enshrines a dragon as pointed out by a wildly gesticulating species turned into stone. I am not sure about its relation to the legends of Enoshima. Is it Ryujin, the mythological dragon god of the sea to whom the faithful send prayers for their wealth?

Okutsunomiya

2009-07-07T15:38:00.012+01:00

The third building of the Enoshima Jinja, Okutsunomiya (Shrine in the Depth), is situated further away in the Western part of the small island. It is believed to be an Otabisho, a resting place for the goddess Tagirihimenomikoto during the heat of summer.
The Torii at the entrance was donated by Minamoto no Yoritomo in 1182, the founder and first Shogun of the Kamakura Shogunate of Japan, a proof of the importance and antiquity of the site.
The Bronze Statue of Kengyo Yamada, to whom a special style of Koto music is related, reminds us that Benten, the goddess of the island, is also patron of music.
Legend tells of a giant, sacred turtle which inhabited the cave below the shrine. No wonder, the surrounding grove on Kinkisan, the "Hill of the Golden Turtle" is "turtle ground", a sacred stone and other features resemble one of the totems of Enoshima.

The brown and grey wooden structure of the Jinja rebuilt in 1842 blends harmoniously in with the green trees.
On the ceiling of the Shrine's divine gate Hoitsu Sakai, an artist of the Edo period, painted "Happo Nirami no Kame". What else but a picture of a turtle, a masterpiece, strange and unusual as the turtle, glaring in all directions seems to return your gaze, regardless which angle you look at it from.

A Glimpse of the Enoshima Cliffs

2009-07-07T15:17:00.006+01:00

Once I reached the top the narrow lane, lined occasionally with inns and private houses, continued. There are a lot more sites of interest, a modern Buddhist temple, the Observation Tower, to mention but a few. While walking on I caught a glimpse of the impressive cliffs of the island which have inspired ever so many artists since centuries.

Nakasunomiya

2009-07-07T14:17:00.008+01:00

The path to the sacred sites has improved tremendously since the late 19th century. Several more flights of stairs and a meandering lane leads slowly further up the hill. At the end of a path between impressive stone lanterns donated by famous Kabuki actors of the Edo period, you come to the second building of the Enoshima Jinja. Nakatsunomiya ( Shrine at the middle) dating back to 853, was rebuilt in the 17th century and remodelled in 1996 . The bright beautiful vermilion wooden Jinja enshrines Ichikishimahimenomikoto, the same goddess as in Itsukushima, Miyajima

Carvings of the islands ubiquitous totems, the dragon and the turtle are rich embellishments to the lintels.

Hetsunomiya

2009-07-07T10:12:00.014+01:00

At the end of the shopping mall a wooden torii and a steep flight of stairs leads up the sacred hill. On the first level overlooking the rooftops of the island you can view the yachts mooring beneath in the harbour built in 1964 for the 18th Olympic Games in Tokyo. All along the path donated stone monuments indicate the prosperity of the pilgrims to the holy island or hint at the mystical character of this home of gods and other supernatural beings.

A dream in a dream: if I ever happen to be in Japan for Hatsumode, I would visit Enoshima Jinja which actually consists of three separate shrines, each dedicated to one of the goddesses of the sea.

At the top of the first terrace the main Shrine of the Jinja, Hetsunomiya (Shrine on the Edge) which enshrines Tagitsuhimenomikoto, goes back to the early 13th century and was only rebuilt in 1976:

There is a certain way you should pass through the huge ring of thick cogon grass and circumvent - a rite of purification before approaching the main hall. The octagonal Hoanden, next to it houses one of the three most famous statues of Benten in Japan:

The goddess, patron to music, fine arts and literature, who descended from the heavens to fight a dragon is also popular as the only women out of 七福神 , the Seven Gods of Good fortune.

Lafcadio Hearn on his visit to Enoshima in 1890 lamented that he was unable to see the image of Benten. When Buddhism and Shintoism were syncretized the originally Buddhist goddess was venerated on ground demarcated by torii. But when Shinto was purged of Buddhist elements in late 19th century the famous statue was gathering dust in storage.

Enoshima

2009-07-06T20:32:00.010+01:00

Enoshima, the holy island, sacred to the goddess of the sea, known for pilgrimages for centuries is still popular for family outings nowadays. As for us Europeans the Eiffel Tower, Enoshima seems to be a major tourist attraction for the Japanese. But strangely enough none of my modern guidebooks has -if at all- any satisfactory information about this small island. Perhaps most Western tourists do not reach past Kamakura. Having read Lafcadio Hearn's "Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan" I was determined to follow his "Pilgrimage to Enoshima" - and I did not regret it.

In his days you had to watch the tide to cross over to the island which is now attached to the mainland by a causeway. But as soon as you walk through the entrance of Enoshima, the weathered Bronze Torii, you feel familiar with the place.

Just as Lafcadio Hearn describes it, the street leading up to the shrines is "lined with taverns and shops" and all of them invite you to stop and call.

Enoden Line

2009-07-05T09:35:00.007+01:00

With just over 24 hours before departure from Japan I decided not to follow my early 20th century guide, Lafcadio Hearn faithfully. I did not stop at Kamakura, not even for Dai Butsu, one of the most famous sights of Japan, the great Buddha. Instead, the little 2-car electric train of the Enoden Line, a private railway, took me in less then half an hour to Katase-Enoshima Station. What a change from the days of jinrikishas...

無 MU

2009-06-28T08:52:00.005+01:00

There was another reason for visiting Kamakura: As I mentioned earlier, I am a great admirer of Yasujiro Ozu. The very influential Japanese director died in 1963 and his remains were buried at Engakuji. I was hoping to be able to pay my respects. By chance on my way out I passed a sign pointing to the cemetary and so I found myself soon wandering among the graves. It was not an easy task as the graves bear no names, only characters which I could not read. I was prepared with a picture of Ozu's grave, but there were far too many. The graveyard is laid out on different levels and I had no idea whether the lower parts consisted of more recent burials or whether there was no such a rule. Still I gave not up but decided to walk up a little more. Down the steps came a Japanese gentleman who seeing this strange Western woman among the gravestones knew what I was looking for. He asked: "Ozu?", I nodded and with the same kindness which I had experienced everywhere in Japan he guided me to the grave.
The square granite block bears beautifully carved the character 無 MU, meaning nothingness, a deep thought in Zen buddhism. A bunch of flowers, and some more traditional Japanese drink offerings to the departed conveys the deep reverence for the late master of Japanese films.

Engakuji

2009-06-21T17:06:00.005+01:00

On my last day in Japan I was following once more the footsteps of Lafcadio Hearn and the first stop on my "pilgrimage to Enoshima" was Kamakura.
Once the seat of the Kamakura shogunate and therefore literally the capital of Japan, Kamakura offers a rich cultural heritage with many famous shrines and temples to visit.
Only a short distance from Kitakamakura Station I passed what remains of the White Egret Pond "byakurochi" and climbed up the stairs through the gate and so from everyday life into a sacred world.
It was too early on monday morning for the crowds of visitors and, although a little dull, I enjoyed my stroll through the large wooded grounds immensely. Engakuji is one of the finest examples of Zen-buddhism with a beautifully laid-out symmetrical design and impressive structures of reed covered roofs and untreated wood. The massive nailless Sanmon shows great craftmanship as does the beautifully carved Karamon. The Butsunichian mausoleum which offers matcha tea appropriately bears another literary reference as the setting for the scene of Yasunari Kawabata's novel, A thousand Cranes "Senbazuru". Climbing a long flight of steps I reached the belfry of the famous bronze bell, which chimes only once a year on the evening before the New Year. A group of young school children surrounded this national treasure, posing for pictures gestureing and laughing loudly. I took a short rest to look down through the woods. before descending again.

Omiya 3

2009-06-16T21:47:00.003+01:00

It was dark by now so we could only get a glimpse of the major Shinto Shrine through the gate but I always felt that the twilight in Japan puts a magical spell on the scenery.
When Kahori suggested a trip to the bamboogrove I jumped for joy at the prospect of seeing at long last what I had missed. The three of us walking happily composed the winding paths between the tall thin trees of the dimly lit local park was beyond my expectations.

Kahori is an honest young woman and did not spare the dark side of her home town. In a short detour on the way back to the station she pointed out to us noisy nightclubs and various other seedy amusement centers.

All is well that ends well. Heavily loaded with my purchase I arrived back in Tokyo late but very happy. This was my second last day before departure...

Omiya 2

2009-06-16T21:46:00.004+01:00

While I sipped at my tea a young Westener entered. He greeted Keiko in Japanese and sat down quietly on the tatami flooring. From then on things developed rapidly. James was obviously the friend also invited to the Shrine. We were soon deep in conversation when the phone rang announcing Kahori travelling back from a tea ceremony lesson in Tokyo and in exchanging our experiences about Japan, time did not seem long in waiting. As soon as Kahori entered my spirit was lifted, all clouds were blown away and the sun sent down a big smile. She is a very special person leaving a strong impression on everybody. Her presence spreads beauty and calmness and makes you feel at ease. We took part in a tea ceremony before setting of to Hikawa Shrine by car as it was late.

Omiya 1

2009-06-16T20:03:00.005+01:00

Like many visitors to Japan I was looking for a Kimono. While preparing for my trip I learned about a Kimonoshop in Omiya.
Back home, since I first contacted Kahori Ochi, I knew that this was the place to go. This may sound strange as one can find second hand Kimonos everywhere in Japan, mostly of good quality and at a reasonable price. But whoever met Kahori will understand how I was charmed by this young ambassador to Japanese culture. I made arrangements to see her when I would be in Tokyo and on my arrival I was invited to join her and an American friend on Sunday afternoon for a walk to Hikawa Shrine. I was much looking forward to this and ofcourse changed my plans for the day accordingly. By planning everything meticulously I was able to see a lot of Japan during my 15 days stay but everytime I altered my plans something special happened. Japan is a magical country indeed...
So straight from an afternoon stroll along the Ginza I travelled by Shinkansen to the city of Omiya just 25 km to the North of central Tokyo.
For once I had no problem to find Sakaeya from the stadion, the map was carefully drawn. But when I arrived with great hopes I was at first very puzzled as Kahori was not there. I was in good time to choose and try on the garments, only Mrs. Ochi, the mother, insisted that Kahori was not at all coming today. Keiko Ochi is a very lovable person but with her limited knowledge of English and my non-existing Japanese we were both at a loss. I took my time to choose a fine kimono for myself and my daughter and while my purchases were folded and the bill processed I was offered a cup of tea. I must have shown my disappointment as the granddaughter was asked over the phone to help and translate.

Shichi-go-san

2009-06-16T10:05:00.003+01:00

At Senso-ji I saw many children beautifully dressed in traditonal Japanese Costume visiting with their families the temple to thank for the first 7, 5 or 3 years of their young lives and pray for their future.

Senso-ji

2009-06-16T09:19:00.006+01:00

Next I visited Tokyo's oldest Buddhist Temple located in Asakusa, one of the most popular temples. Once through the imposing structure of the "Thundergate" (Kaminarimon) I was strolling along Nakamise-dori, a straight 250 m long street leading to Main Hall, lined with up to 90 shops selling souvenirs and produce of Japanese crafts - a living tradition going back to times when pilgrims walked all the way to Senso-ji.
It was as busy as on my previous visit to Nikko, but I did not mind. The people were here not so much to admire the grand setting but to follow their daily ritual and to worship. Crowds around the incense burning Joukoro were fanning the smoke which is considered to be healthy to whichever part of their body is in need.

Within the inner complex of the temple there are stalls selling OMIKUJI. For a donation you can consult an oracle on a small piece of paper.

I watched a young couple reading out to each other the divine answers, with a giggle now and then, and tongue in cheek. They were pretending not to take it serious but are anchored in Japanese tradition nevertheless.

Lively coherence

2009-06-01T20:42:00.004+01:00

Tokyo is a fine example of the lively coherence of modern and traditional ways of life which I found everywhere in Japan.
The next day was a sunday but the metropolis was bustling as usual. I went to Shinjuku and was inevitably amazed by the hight of the skyscrapers and their architectural beauty.
Only a few stops away, back on the train to Ueno, I was steeped into historical Tokyo. Once built as a temple town in the Edo period, the neighbourhood of Yanaka with many small wooden buildings in traditional style still retains the charm and warmth of the past. I took a walk around the narrow lanes and discovered the former house and studio of Fumio Asakura, a well known Japanese sculptor (1883-1964), now a museum and well worth a visit.

let me continue...

2009-06-01T20:36:00.001+01:00

It is quite a while since my last posting, one of the reasons is maybe that I do not want my trip to end...

A happy ending to the day

2009-03-29T15:02:00.002+01:00

It was dark by the time I finished my delicious meal. More than satisfied I walked to the station at Matsushima Kaigan passing various booths offering a variety of barbecued shellfish to the passer-by.

I sincerely hope to be back again in this charming place.

Language problems...

2009-03-29T14:43:00.004+01:00

The further away from the major cities the more you feel lost no to understand Japanese. My experience was however that this is never a real problem, the Japanese are very kind and try their utmost to help.
At the fish-restaurant in Matsushima kaigan I was given a menu card, the letters were Japanese and Romaji but the language was still Japanese! There were pictures to help, but I wanted a dinner with Sasakamaboko as one course so I had to order a la carte...
To order a Miso soup seemed simple enough until the waitress tried to find out what kind of soup I wanted, She pointed out the different ingredients, which did not mean anything to me, still she wanted me to make a choice although I would have tried with pleasure any of them. Once she saw that the written words did not mean anything to me she started to make drawings of at least 3 different types of shellfish but I was just as much puzzled. Now the Chef entered and tried his very restricted English on me. I am sure they would have thought of other means to help me understand, but I decided to put an end to it, I knew I would enjoy any of them. I pointed to the first name on the menu, and this is what I got:

Fish dinner

2009-03-29T14:23:00.008+01:00

Travelling to Matsushima kaigan for the sunset maybe extravagant but this was topped by an excellent fish dinner by the sea.
The oyster-season had just started in Japan:

But I was looking for something different: Matsushima is known for the best fishing grounds around Japan and one of the specialties of the Miyagi prefecture is Sasakamaboko, a fish paste made with high-grade fish, processed into paste and then roasted in the shape of a bamboo leaf.

Matsushima Kaigan

2009-03-29T11:32:00.008+01:00

Matsushima Kaigan is definitely one of the 3 most scenic places of Japan, a port by the sea looking out towards a bay dotted with more than 200 pine covered islands.
I arrived about an hour before sunset and walking by the shore I crossed the bridge to Godaido, a small islet not far from the pier. The tranquility of the Shinto shrine was by far more to my liking than the celebrated Temples of Nikko.

Short trip North

2009-03-29T11:21:00.005+01:00

I always wanted to see as much as I could of Japan but you are restricted where you can go during a 15 days' visit. I was curious to go North but the most northerly place I visited so far was Nikko. Therefore Nikko which did not come up to my expectations was the starting point for my travelling extravanganza. With my JR travelpass I changed at Utsunomiya to the Shinkansen line and passing by a more hilly countryside I reached Sendai within the hour. From there I took a local train to Matsushima Kaigan.

Eki

2009-03-29T08:13:00.005+01:00

Since I had no idea where the bus would stop, I walked back the straight road to the station which is only about 20 Minutes away.
The station itself deserves some attention as its elegant wooden building is noted to preserve the Romanesque atmosphere of the Meiji period. It was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1915 and remains the oldest operating station of JR East.

Shin-kyo

2009-03-28T18:58:00.005Z

Down at the bottom of the hill is the Shin-kyo which spans vermilion lacquered gracefully across the River Daiya. According to legend a hermit was helped by two snakes to cross the high waters of the river.
The "Snake Bridge" is considered one of the 3 finest bridges of Japan, its simple elegance contrasts with the wildness of the river gorge, the tumbling waters and the multicoloured autumn foliage of the wooded hills in the background.
In feudal times only the emperor was allowed to use it. Nowadays you pay an admission fee for the sacred bridge if you wish to cross rather than by the modern bridge nearby.

Nikko...

2009-03-28T17:15:00.004Z

My trip to Nikko the following day was disappointing...
To begin with it was a rather dull day and choosing a Saturday in early November was a big mistake. Many Japanese families celebrate "shichi-go-san", by visiting famous Shrines with their children of the appropriate age to thank for their good health and pray for their safe future. The place was crowded...
As soon as I arrived at the station I was pushed into a bus not knowing were it would take me. Nikko, a World cultural heritage is certainly a beautiful and highly artistic ensemble of Shrines and Temples but I felt like when in the Louvre the hustle and bustle around the Mona Lisa spoils the pleasure to view the famous painting.
Different to Himeji Nikko did not seem to care for Non-Japanese visitors and unless you consulted your guidebook you were lost among all the Japanese signs. Although I had bought a combination ticket for the various Temples having been among the crowds at the Toshu-go Shrine I turned my back on the other celebrated sites - I learned later, that it was quiet higher up the hills but I certainly had enough.

Lost in Tokyo

2009-02-23T15:45:00.004Z

I have to admit I did not take to Tokyo. Maybe the metropolis does not represent the Japan I was looking for, maybe I was just tired after touring Japan extensively, or 4 days in Tokyo - most of them spent traveling to places outside - are just not enough.I think you have to be young to get the feeling for Tokyo and you should not travel on your own.
To begin with, my hotel was reasonably priced, comfortable and conveniently located within walking distance to Ueno station. My accommodation was spacious with even a private Japanese bath, a tatami room, but without much what I had grown to like, there was no alcove and the pictures on the walls were of the same style as you can find everywhere in the world. Self-service-breakfast was complimentary, so I do not want to comment on the food, but I disliked much the polystyrene bowls and dishes you had to use. This was such a different world from the care and pride with which food was served in any of the other places.

But the most shocking experience at the beginning of my stay in Tokyo was that I found myself lost. Soon after arrival I left the hotel for Ueno Park being given at reception a map with detailed landmarks such as Macdonalds and big department stores. I had struggled before with maps but when returning after dusk I obviously missed one of the landmarks and could not find my way. I asked a lot of people but they were all commuters rushing to get their trains home. They were kind enough to stop but could not help me as they were not living in the area. I tried an office building but the receptionist was not any wiser. Eventually a young lady seeing my distress turned and guided me around a few blocks until she could see me safely walking through the Hotel door.
I am still most grateful for her kindness...

On the way to the Metropolis

2009-02-23T14:57:00.005Z

My journey took me from rural Gifu once more to the highly populated Pacific coast of Honshu, changing in Nagoya from the enjoyable Hida Wide View Ltd Express to the fast but very smoothly running Shinkansen.
It was very comfortable and the high speed was only noticeable as the scenery was flashing past the train window. Suddenly I saw a huge mountain over topping majestically everything : 富士山 . I was very excited about this most unexpected sight, not so my Japanese neighbour who after confirming that this was Fujiyama indeed continued reading his sport's magazine.

Nakabashi at night

2009-02-08T19:56:00.008Z

Back at Takayama after a splendid trip to the mountain village of Shirakawago I enjoyed once more a delicious dinner, my last Hida steak. Afterwards I went for a farewell visit to Nakabashi bridge which was beautifully illuminated in the night. The picture does not do it justice, my camera was not working perfect since my "accident" at Matsue...

It was pouring with rain during the night, but stopped when I left Oyado Yoshinoya for the station. With sadness I said my good-bye to the kind owners, mother and daughter, who came out of the house and followed my progress down the arcade of Yasugawa Street, seeing me off in the truly Japanese way...

Shirakawago

2009-01-25T18:26:00.009Z

While in Takayama to visit Shirakawago is a must-do. Once a secluded village, located in the mountainous region of Gifu and cut off from the rest of the world for a long period during winter, Shirakawago can nowadays be reached in 50 minutes by an Express shuttle bus from Takayama. Surrounded by tree-covered mountains, most beautifully displaying the various shades of autumn colours, the about 150 traditionally farmhouses in Ogi-machi are outstanding examples of a traditional way of life perfectly adapted to the environment and people's social and economic circumstances. They were built in the Gassho-Style, of wooden beams combined to form a steeply pitched thatched roof - resembling two hands together in prayer - to stand long-lasting rain and heavy snowfalls. The village subsisted on the cultivation of mulberry trees and so the houses were larger than normal Japanese private houses to have space in the attic for rearing silkworms and for producing fuming nitric acid to earn rare cash.

It was a pleasure to cross the suspension bridge and to walk through Ogi-machi. On this sunny day washing was on the line everywhere and clothes out for airing. A wheel barrow was leaning against a wooden shed and the colourful farmhouse gardens were gleaming in bright light. There were bikes and cars and of course modestly modern buildings in this lived-in historic village. I managed to find Kanda House, one of the two original Gassho-houses, now kept as a museum and open to the public. Up in the attic I could see the wooden structure of the roof and a display of the implements of the home industry. At ground floor there was an Irori fireplace and I was offered a cup of tea brewed from wild grass.

Back on the other side of the Shougawa river is the Heritage Museum of Shirakawago, a quiet and peaceful place, a world apart from the busy shops and eating places of Ogimachi.
Provided with a map in English at the entrance I strolled around a rebuilt historic village from various parts of the area. There are farmhouses, barns, sheds for storage of all kinds of goods, stables, a teahouse, a working watermill, a shrine and also a fire watchtower - all beautifully set along a river and ponds. On a field by the river two people where harvesting and bundling sheaves of corn.

Sake

2009-01-25T18:24:00.004Z

Hida Furukawa as well as Takayama is noted for the high quality of its water and so two Sake breweries producing particular good tasting Sake can be found in the old town. Look out for a huge Sakabayashi or Sugidama, hanging under the eaves of the brewery's front door. This ball of tightly bound Suigi leaves which slowly fades over the year turning from green to brown is used as a symbol for a brewery.

It was early afternoon and I seemed to be the only visitor around. What a delightful day, it had turned bright, sunny and warm, whereas in the morning my fingers were numb with cold. More than anywhere else on my trip I experienced a considerable difference in temperature during the day in the mountainous northern Gifu prefecture - but bear in mind this area is also called Japanese Alps.

Koj

2009-01-25T18:22:00.005Z

Before the old town would be too crowded I set off for Hida Furukawa, only 15 minutes by train North of Takayama, another Edo Period town, prosperous due to the rich high quality timber resources of the surrounding woodlands. This smaller riverside town is also full of historic wooden buildings nicely preserved.

Not far from the station I stepped aside to have a look at my map when I suddenly found one of my legs halfway plunged into water. What happened?
I had not realized until then that in Japan small canals are running close to the houses. Usually they are well covered and I do not know why a small panel about 40cm wide was put aside to cause my mishap. Fortunately by then the sun was shining quite warm and dried my sock and shoe quickly. Luckily I did not step into the deeper and wider Seto which is inhabited during the warmer season by beautifully coloured koj-carps.
Hida Furukawa is such a calm and pleasant place, that I soon recovered from the shock and carried on along the picturesque Seto canal, lined by old fashioned white-walled storehouses.

Sannomachi

2009-01-25T18:21:00.004Z

The old town of Takayama, east of the river Miyagawa retains a traditional touch with beautifully preserved buildings more than most Japanese cities due to her isolated rural situation at the foot of the Japanese Alps. Many houses and whole streets in the Sannomachi part date back to the 16th century when Takayama was a thriving merchant town. The city was always surrounded by woodland. So the lined beauty of the old wooden buildings side-by-side with projecting lattice and eaves of uniform heights are fine examples of the excellent carpenter's craftsmanship which the area was famous for. Nowadays the houses are shops, living quarters or museums. The places of interest are well signposted and easy accessible and draw a considerable amount of tourists to the region.

Morningmarket

2009-01-25T18:13:00.005Z

It was a chilly morning with the mist about rising over the bridges across the Miyagawa.

I kept my gloves on when visiting the morning market along the river and the farmer's wives offering their fresh produce covered their knees with blankets to keep the cold at bay. They come from nearby villages with vegetable, fruit and pickles. One stall presented a great variety of delicious apples and thin slices for you to try.
There were stalls with textiles as well obviously for the visitors, although pretending to be in the local Sashiko technique the label gave the goods away as "Made in China"...

Hoba Miso

2009-01-25T18:11:00.006Z

I was warm and comfortable in Oyado Yoshinoya, and the food was excellent. On my first night I objected when I was given knife and fork for my dinner thinking, that it was expected that a westerner cannot use "hashi" properly, but soon found out that there is no other way to eat Hida steak, a beef raised in the Hida Highlands famous for its marbled meat and melt-in-the-mouth tenderness. As the steak was only one of the various dishes I could make use of chopsticks as well.
Breakfast the following morning was even more special. Along with the usual I was given HOBA MISO, thin slices of Hida beef with fermented soybean paste and mushrooms which is grilled on a leaf of a wild growing mountain magnolia. The girl from Okinawa, originally from the region who shared my table showed me how to cook the meat and also introduced me to the way how Japanese people eat breakfast. I followed her diligently but once it came to mix the raw egg with rice I was already full...

Hida Express to Takayama

2009-01-25T18:10:00.007Z

Next day on the train again, I am used to the convenience and comfort of the fast Shinkansen by now.
Transferring in Nagoya to the Wide View Hida Ltd Express which brings you in just over 2 hours to the high mountainous district of the same name in Gifu Prefecture, I went on the most scenic journey of my trip. Past Mino-ota the unique landscape is carved up by the rough waters of the Hida . The train follows the river, crosses over again and again, sometimes on level with the river, sometimes high above offering at every new turn another breathtaking view.
At times the wild water runs in a narrow winding bed enclosed by misty mountains, or widens up to a calm shallow river.

It was already dark when I reached Takayama in the northern Japanese Alps and considerably cooler than in Miyjima which I left in the morning.

Kintay-kyo

2009-01-25T14:51:00.006Z

Before returning to Miyajima in the late afternoon I took a local train to Iwakuni. Here in Yamaguchi, the next prefecture and only 40 km distant from Hiroshima crosses one of the most famous bridges of Japan the river Nishiki. Although during my visit the river seemed to be picturesque and calm, its fast moving currents during rainstorms often swept the wooden bridges of old entirely away. After repeated trial and failures in 1673 the Kintay kyo was completed using highest engineering standards spanning 210 m of the river in 5 steep arches without using a single nail. Only in 1950 after years of negligence of adequate maintenance the "indestructible" bridge was swept away by floods caused by a typhoon. With great efforts the almost identically reconstructed bridge was reopened only three years later.

At one time only samurai were allowed to cross the elegantly formed "brocade sash" bridge. Nowadays by paying a small fee I could walk the up and downs of the high arches across the magnificent structure, so getting a feeling for times long gone by..

Hiroshima

2009-01-25T14:17:00.004Z

Just when the megaphone-guided visitors started to crowd the island I took the ferry to the mainland, first of all to visit Hiroshima and its Peace Memorial Park. The Atomic Bomb Dome, severely damaged and burnt by the first atomic bomb conveys the horror of nuclear weapons especially on a grey and overcast day and strongly appeals for peace.

Daishoin

2009-01-25T13:31:00.004Z

During my 2 days on the Island I visited the sites at various times, preferably in the early morning, sometimes even before breakfast, and in the late afternoon or evening. I did not climb Mt Misen as it was overcast mostly apart from the morning of my departure.
Located at the foot of the mountain and above Itsukushima shrine the Buddhist Daishoin temple
was easy accessible and with its many magnificient statues, grand halls and pituresque gardens at least as interesting as its more famous Shinto counterpart. The richness of the site lavishly decorated in gold was enhanced by its natural surroundings of colourful maple woods in autumn foilage.
I know too little about Buddhism to fully appreciate the treasures at Daishoin but I visited the temple often and always found something pleasing. Numerous Rakan statues lining the steps with their unique facial expressions were intriguing to me and most of all a little figurine laying asleep with a small animal on his back.

o-torii

2009-01-25T13:16:00.002Z

The cause of Miyajima's fame is the most revered Itsukushima shrine and its large torii floating over the waters at high tide.
Once the crowds returned to the mainland I was among the few visitors who staid overnight and as the stone lanterns were turned on and the sites illuminated I enjoyed the calmness of the beautiful island strolling in my yukata the lonely streets and even under the majestic wooden structure of the vermillion O-torii - as it was low tide by then.

Miyajima

2009-01-25T09:12:00.006Z

Next day I made for Miyajima one of the offical three most scenic views of Japan.

What a change coming from peaceful Shimane to the hustle and bustle of the San'yo coast. Once facing the crowds on the sacred "Shrine Island" I realized how lucky I was to secure a room on the Island, indeed I found that this was only due to a mistake as single rooms are very rare at anytime. The Island is only small with about 2000 inhabitants and 20 hotels or guesthouses. Back in May I had already considered to look for a place on the mainland receiving many rejections of my request for bookings and so the confirmation of Ryoso Kawaguchi came as a surprise. On arrival I was asked where the second person was and then it was obvious that they had mistaken my booking for 1 person for 2 nights as for 2 persons for 2 nights.

I can only praise Ryoso Kawaguchi, there was no further problem, one futon and the yukata was removed from my spacious room and I was welcome to settle in a excellent guesthouse. The house was beautifully restored and furnished with great love and care for every little detail, the miniature pottery fish in a stone pond at the entrance, parts of roof tiles of the old house embedded into the modern floor, a branch of a tree as railing for the stairs and smaller branches covered with Japanese paper as lampshades in the dinning room, to mention but a few. I admired as well the many quilts and handcrafts by the owner of the inn.

The food cooked by the husband and chef was just mouthwatering delicious. As the oyster-season had started one of the many dishes was oysters in a homemade sauce covered with cheese and baked in foil. One morning at breakfast the young french couple at the next table asked to take a photo of my displayed breakfast - they were chewing toast and marmelade and did not dare to eat Japanese for breakfast...

Sunset

2008-12-02T13:54:00.003Z

The sunset over Shinjiko was going to be the highlight of my visit to Matsue.

Late afternoon I set out for the shoreline where some photographers had already taken position. What a pleasure to watch children climbing on the big sculptures using great art playfully.
It was not one of the most spectacular sunsets, but splendid enough to make it very memorable, a poetic scene with the rays of the sinking sun dying the soft waves of the waters in ever changing hues of gold.
It lasted a long time and I strolled on along with many others until I stood opposite the tine island of Yomega-shima. I could not stop watching. On return to the Art Museum, I turned back for a last view, a last picture - when misfortune struck and I stumbled and fell over a floodlight barely pointing out of the pavement but just not very noticeable in the dim light. I hurt my knees badly, my clothes were unspoiled but my camera got a blow and didn't function properly thereafter.

It could have been worse but for the good Gods of Izumo providing me with a better destiny...

Fishing villages

2008-12-02T11:01:00.001Z

From then on I was dipped into a Japan, I did not expect to encounter any more. I know the small fishing villages I visited will have all the modern, necessary equipment, but the small boats with their glass-lights for fishing in the darkness and the few houses clinging to each other raised the hope that the spirit of days gone by is still alive. The boats were moored opposite a small island where a small torii tells how everyday-life is interwoven with religion.

Sea of Japan

2008-12-02T10:42:00.002Z

Only a few steps away I could see trough a granite torii the bright blue Sea of Japan. Outside a nearby shop jellyfish was drying pegged on a line. The intensive smell of fish and the picture of anything out of the sea up for drying stayed with me for the rest of the afternoon. Some visitors bought dried fish, others were nibbling away on barbecued fish or shellfish. From up the hill a winding small road I saw the white torii of the small island Fumi-shima, a breeding ground for Black Tailed Gulls and a sanctuary where only the priest is allowed to step on.

At the top the lighthouse of Hinomisaki, the tallest in the Orient.

A path over cliffs and through pine woods offered splendid views. Windswept trees transformed the sea into a living picture and small islands seemed to swim in a bay with forested hills as backdrop.

Hinomisaki-jinja

2008-12-02T10:23:00.002Z

The bus along the coast to the westernmost peninsula of Shimane stopped near a granite torii. I knew about Hinomisaki-jinja from Lafcadio Hearn’s visit in 1891, but I did not expect such a contrast between the splendour of this joyful vermilion red shrine and the magnificent shrine of Taisha in its natural brown serenity. Both shrines belong to Japan’s important cultural assets and are very old, or based on old buildings, both are very extensive. In Hinomisaki some buildings are up a steep stair or hidden in the nearby woods.

Izumo Taisha

2008-12-01T22:10:00.003Z

Today I went to Izumo Taisha at last.
The grand shrine of Izumo, also called Izumo no Oyashiro, is one of the oldest and most revered Shinto shrines of Japan.
There is a saying still that 8 million kami of Japan are gathering each year in the 10th month at Taisha. October therefore is called month without gods (kami-na-tsuki) only in Izumo month with gods (kami-ari tsuki).
So I obviously chose a good time to visit Shimane, or the Izumo of old.
The sun was shining brightly and I had a good briefing by Terazu-san who even gave me some small coins to use for the ritual at the shrine.
On the bus from Izumoshi to the shrine an elderly lady, Tomoko, from Hokkaido, a visitor as well, took good care that I would not miss the right stop. So it was natural and very pleasant too, that we visited the shrine together. Once we walked through the many huge torii in the pine woods which surround the sacred place we were joined by a young girl, Motoko, who to begin with helped out with English, when Tomoko was at a loss. The buildings appear in "taisha-zukuri", the oldest style of shrine architecture in Japan. I was impressed by the shimenawa of the haiden which supposedly measures 13 m in length and weighs tons. Having followed the purification as shown by Tomoko and prayed as instructed by Terazu-san, I had to buy an Omikuji as it was a book on those Oracles on a white paper which first drew my attention to Izumo. Tomoko and Motoko followed reluctantly. As I could not read it, I handed the little white piece of paper to Tomoko and for a while I heard only excited Oh’s then followed by a torrent of words. Omikuji are oracles telling your destiny, you can have a good or a bad fortune and in both cases people tie the little white papers to strings or trees in the sacred grounds, either to make them come true or to hope for the help oft he gods to prevent the misfortune. My destiny was obviously very fortunate and even better than Tomoko’s and Motoko‘s who were pleased as well. After ward when I went around the fenced in Main Hall (honden) and other attached buildings, all of them typically thatched with pine bark chippings, Tomoko took a rest and even Motoko looked out for me from time to time. This was not difficult as there were only a few Westerners among the visitors and I always returned faithfully.
At one time the honden must have been very impressive. Archaeological finds suggest that the original structure was placed on very high pillars, only accessible by very steep stairs.
We were more lucky and could watch a wedding ceremony at the second hall (kagura den) . Okuninushi-no-mikato to whom the shrine is dedicated is not only a god of agriculture but also the Shinhto deity of marriage. I was puzzled at first to see many people throwing ceaselessly coins up to the shimenawa.I only learnt later that for the lucky one whose coin does not fall down a wish comes true.

Fondness

2008-12-01T20:05:00.003Z

What made Matsue so special to me?

There are the people: I have mentioned Hideki and the girls, but I may not forget Terazu-san the chef and owner of Ryokan Terazuya. He and his kind wife gave me good advice and had always an open ear for me. One evening after dinner which he had cooked and served for quite a few guests he asked me to stay on until he would have the dishes cleared away. He then spontaneously gave me a lesson in calligraphy and at the end even presented me with a calligrapher's pen.

Matsue is a pleasant, modern city: I thoroughly enjoyed myself promenading along the shoreline of Shinjiko and often crossed the Ohashi bridge to the city center. The wide open spaces let you breathe easy.

Small is beautiful: I have a notion for small shops where you can buy goods in small quantities and not prepacked - and I found a lot of the in Matsue: the florist opposite the street from the the greengrocer and another shop dealing with a variety of food and spices just round the corner.
One morning on my way to the station I met two women heavily loaded with flowers for a market and when I returned in the late afternoon I met them again now with empty creels but the same lovely smile.

The days of Ozu and his films are past but the spirit, I believe, I found in Matsue.

Tea

2008-12-01T19:18:00.004Z

The International Tourist office in Matsue has a small tea house built in where the way of tea is explained and occasionally tea ceremony held. Tea culture is very alive in the city and so it was not surprising that Hideki invited me to a delightful tea shop downtown. I enjoyed my matcha and 2 delicious dangos so much that we went shopping after wards. Matsue is not only famous for its way of tea but also for WAGASHI, the traditional fine confectionery that goes with it. The problem with this kind of sweets in Japan is their short shelf-life. So soon both of us were turning the pretty boxes of sweets on the counter of the delicatessen shop for the relevant dates. As we did this on a big scale I wondered what the shop assistant would think of us and asked Hideki to explain to her my reason, which he did reluctantly after a while, with the result, that the girl joined us and found suitable ones at last.

Later on we had a quick visit of the castle grounds when we were called to the Tourist office where a present for me had been handed in by the mother of one of the girls.Unfortunately she was not in when we arrived and I was asked to draw an OMIKU-JI instead, which read as follows:

"Thank you for coming to the castle town Matsue!
Please enjoy the beautiful view from Matsue castle tower and you will find happiness in Matsue!!"

This was a charming idea of the girls and I could not believe my luck when I won a lovely set of chopsticks. I protested at first, but was told there were blanks as well.
so this was one of my lucky days...

Adachi Museum

2008-12-01T18:53:00.001Z

Next morning I changed my choreographed schedule. Hideki had so kindly offered to take time off in the afternoon and show me around Matsue. Instead of setting out for Izumo I took the train to nearby Yasuigi and went by shuttlebus to the Adachi Museum of Art, a must-see for anybody who is interested in Japanese gardens. Set in an expansive natural environment, the beauty of the various types of gardens was stunning. Most of it can only be viewed from the museum building, but a path leads you to a teahouse, through a mossy garden and bamboo grove. I loved the Pond Garden with the foliage of its trees beginning to show autumn colours, but I was most impressed by the „living picture “ , where a dark tree together with the window frames the dry landscape garden. I would like to be able to see the gardens different characters depending on the season, especially in winter when the black and white reduces everything to basics.
In addition to the gardens, the Adachi Museum of Art also houses a collection of nearly 1,300 of the country's most highly regarded contemporary paintings centering on the works of Yokoyama Taikan.
And then the most unexpected happened:
I can not recall how we met, but traveling back at the end of my visit to the Adachi Museum I found myself deeply in conversation with a Japanese lady 2 years my senior. Within the short time we had together we became very close and I feel I struck up a friendship for life with Keiko, a musician and master of tea ceremony.
This can only happen in the Province of Gods as Shimane, or Izumo of old, is called. Think of it, I had to travel half the globe, to change my plans and be on the prerdestined spot at the predestined time – to meet a friend…

Dinner

2008-11-30T19:19:00.002Z

Returning to Ryokan Terazuya there was just enough time for a relaxing Japanese bath, before a delicious dinner was served consisting of Sashimi, Miso soup, various meat -, fish- and shellfishdishes. During my stay I feasted on quite a variety of excellent local sea- and freshwater-produce such as eel, shijimi clams, crab, asari to name but a few.
Tonight I was joined for dinner by a group of girls from Hamada High School who had traveled from this small city further along the San'in coast to compete in a volleyball match. Akihiro Terazu, the innkeeper and chef urged the girls to try their English on me, before he sat down himself, smiling wisely and listening carefully. It did not take long before they overcame any shyness and soon we were engaged in a pleasant conversation. They were very nice girls, not at all boisterous and although they shared rooms next to mine I never noticed them. Next morning when I told them I would keep my fingers crossed for their match they were delighted.

Once the dinner was over I went out along the shores of Shinjiko, it was dark but Japan is a very safe place.

Horikawa

2008-11-30T17:26:00.003Z

Lateron I went round delightful little shops for some souvenirs before I came to the departure point of the Horikawa Pleasure Boat. Matsue which is surrounded by water, has been called "Water City" or "Venice of the East" because of her intrinsic system of canals. Horikawa, the castle moat was once protecting the castle and its surroundings as well as used for transporting goods and as water source. The rich fishing ground provided also excellent food.
Along with me a large group of Japanese arrived and so I was put on a special boat all by myself with a boatman-guide fluent enough in English to point out the characteristics of each of the 16 different bridges which we passed. While cruising I could see a lot of scenic beauty, water birds, turtles and fish in the flowing water and even a white heron looking for its prey. At some houses, there were still steps leading to the water‘s surface, where vegetable could be cleaned or water fetched.
The sun was just about setting at the end of my 50 minutes cruise.

Lafcadio Hearn

2008-11-30T16:50:00.004Z

Once settled in Ryokan Terazuya I walked across Ohashi bridge on my way to Lafcadio Hearn‘s Old residence in the samurai district North of Matsue Castle where he lived in 1891 for a couple of months while teaching English. The author born to irish-greek parents was very interested in folklore and his comprehensive works, some of which is republished until today, is very popular. A great interpreter of things Japanese to the west, he at the same time showed the Japanese their own culture through the eyes of a stranger and so became a Japanese institution himself. His former residence is open to the public as a museum, house and garden are kept close to what they looked like over a century ago. I was surprised about the modesty of the building, but one has to keep in mind that in Japan rooms are used differently. Once the futons are moved the bedroom can double up as living room or if necessary as study. Also the garden was much smaller than I had expected after reading his essay "In a Japanese Garden". But the atmosphere was genuine and a blessing on a fine sunny afternoon with all the doors wide open to sit on the floor and gaze at the beauty.

Matsue

2008-11-30T15:42:00.004Z

At Okayama I changed to Ltd Express Yakumo, a train which travels more slowly from the industrialised and highly populated Pacific coast of West Honshu to the other side of Japan and passes some pretty rural, mountainous scenary. I was heading today for Matsue, capital city of the Shimane Prefecture, attractively located between the Sea of Japan and the eastern shores of Shinjoko, the 7th largest lake of Japan. Both Sea- and Freshwater-Fishing play an important part in the economy of the population of about 150000 of Matsue.
Of course the sun was shining when I arrived - what a welcome:
During the progress of planning I had received some very helpful and friendly mails . So the young ladies of the International Tourist Office were looking out for me as was Hideki Ogawa, a football coach with FC Shimane who had been in Germany 14 years ago. The attention I received was great and if you know that they get about 400 calls a day from foreign tourist supposedly most of them from some other countries in Asia,this tells you how devoted the young ladies are. I made a point of popping in whenever I was near Matsue station.

How to draw attention

2008-11-29T10:32:00.007Z

After an exciting start I relaxed in the Shinkansen for the next 45 minutes and took out my knitting. So the following scene was set:
There was an elderly Japanese couple seated across the aisle. Once the lady noticed me knitting socks she took out her glasses to see better what I was doing. After a short while – I am not mentioning all the bows and smiles from now on between us – she crossed the aisle, grabbed my socks and carefully examined the pattern by stretching the knitting. I did not understand her comment but since she pointed to the foot part I supposed she was amazed and lifted my leg to show her my long feet for Japanese standards. She sat down on the empty seat next to me and started a conversation which I could not follow. As I presumed that she asked me where I am from, this is a question which I was asked all the time, I answered DOITSU, „Ah, she said, and answered with a torrent of words. This time I could make out some European capitals, Budapest, Prague... Obviously she had been traveling. Once she mentioned Munich, I pointed out that this was my home city, Oh, she said and gleamed. We both smiled very pleased.

Knitting seems to be rather uncommon in Japan nowadays. Another day the business man next to me on the train stopped reading his paper when I started knitting and told me that the last person he saw knitting was his grandmother - and this was the beginning of a pleasant conversation.

More trains...

2008-11-28T23:27:00.007Z

After three days in Kyoto I departed. I had seen only a little of the rich culture of the old capital of Japan, but experienced a lot.

With my first long distance train journey my preparations were to be tested. If I missed a connection I would have to change plans and loose half a day to get acquainted with the new place.

Therefore I was arriving pretty nervous at the platform for my train leaving Kyoto. I would have to take a slower train to Shin Osaka before changing to a Shinkansen for the next leg of my trip. I was half an hour too early but all the trains were already announced with up to 10 minutes delay.

What to do? I tried to ask the stationmaster if I could take any of the earlier trains into Shin Osaka and showed him my reservation. But he did not understand and tried to calm me. I suppose he told me to wait until my train would be announced on the monitor. After a while I made another attempt. Meantime I had drawn a young man’s attention, he had enough English to understand my problem and to speak to the stationmaster who immediately put me on the train he was just about to whistle off. Here I was in the early morning among commuting Japanese, most of them still half asleep sitting on the benches or hanging in the "rings". Nobody cared much and so with one hand I reached out for one of the rings from the ceiling while trying to hold firm to my luggage with the other.

There was nothing else to worry about. We reached Shin Osaka in good time and I got on my Shinkansen without further problems.

Variations in tofu

2008-11-28T21:08:00.004Z

While sailing softly on the river, lights shining through the woods aroused my curiosity. As the boatman noticed this he said "Restaurant", but I did not find out more, only by using finger-language, that I could walk to the restaurant from our landing place.
Like under a spell I followed a beautifully paved path through the woods, guided by bamboo railings and white lanterns. The house was dimly lit as well. After I opened the sliding doors it took a while until the voices coming out of the kitchen noticed the stranger. At the time it was too late for lunch and too early for dinner but still I was welcome and chose a low table overlooking the river - a delightful setting.
Arashiyama is famous for the excellent quality of the tofu produced here with the clear waters of the district.
Therefore it was not surprising that my delicious meal consisted of a variety of tofu-based courses and was served as cold , deep-fried Tofu, and hot pot Yudofu. Even the dessert was Tofu ice cream.
Food in Japan is displayed to please the eye also. The appetizers were neatly carved and placed on a big dish with an ear of rice so prepared that the white grains popping out were eatable. The dishes were delightful too, a small maple leaf would hold a few grains of salt and the ice cream on shinning turquoise glaze looked as if swimming on water.
The whole room showed a highly artistic hand - not surprisingly since the restaurant was owned by a well known calligrapher as I should learn later.
Every time another course was brought in, the young woman - I would rather call her maid than waitress - kneeling at the left side of my table tried to explain to me what I was going to eat. We had little language in common but managed quite well. I obviously admired a little quilted coaster, one of the three which came with every fresh cup of tea, and soon it was given to me as a present...
After I had paid and signed the visitor's book with a calligrapher's pen the maid followed me to the entrance, where my dusty shoes were placed in the right direction. She opened the door and we departed bowing deeply. While I walked up the winding path the maid stood at the door waving and bowing until I disappeared.
If it was not magic, it was a very special experience...

River Oi

2008-11-28T20:29:00.011Z

Following a path on the more quiet river bank I watched small boats and barges sailing upstream. An elderly boatman while punting his passengers on the river explained with big gestures the scenery to the young couple. I would have loved to be on a boat as well.
But instead I walked on, closely following the boats with my eyes.
I went up the forested hill to a small Buddhist temple, a viewpoint which will be glorious in spring at the time of the cherry blossom and a little later in autumn when the maple leaves fully display various hues of red.

On my way down I noticed a younger boatman waiting for late customers as the afternoon progressed. I took a heart and spoke to the young man, but alas his English was restricted to "400 Yen" and when I asked him how far he would transport me down the river it took him a while to understand and point to a small landing place in the distance. Soon after I went punting softly with my Japanese Gondolier on the green waters of the river Oi.

Togetsu-kyo

2008-11-28T19:41:00.010Z

I have a great notion for bridges and Togetsu-kyo is one of my favourites. The wooden bridge, 154 m in length spans a river which changes names from its upstream to the downstream side.
A romantic spot - since ancient times when an emperor commented " it is as if the moon crosses " the bridge is known as Crossing the Moon-Bridge. Like many wooden historic structures in Japan it has been burnt, destroyed and rebuilt in a traditional way many a time.
Coming from Tenryu-ji I passed ice-cream booths and Rickshaw-drivers offering their services. On the other side I wanted to take a a picture of Togetsu-kyo, the softly flowing river and lush green hills. But as usual, somebody else had the same idea. I was prepared to wait patiently but was misunderstood. In Japan everybody seems to take pictures of friends or family and so they have pity on a lonely traveler like myself and offer to take a picture. This time my photographer was very energetic. Using her hands instead of a common language she ordered me more to the right, then more to the left and tried a few snaps. Eventually she handed me the camera back with the words "looky, looky", and waited until she saw that I was satisfied. I thanked her, we both bowed and parted.

Tenryu-ji

2008-11-28T19:06:00.007Z

Arashiyama, an idyllic district on the western outskirts of Kyoto has been popular for a long time, with the wooden Togetsu-kyo bridge as famous landmark and the forested Mount Arashiyama as a backdrop.
Before coming to the bridge I stopped at Tenryu-ji, a leading Zen temple which may not be very big in size but shows some pretty sub temples set in beautiful gardens. By the time I reached the main hall it was too late for lunch at the temple's restaurant, so I just carried on.

Trains...

2008-11-28T14:06:00.007Z

On my way back misfortune struck. The station is about 1 km along a straight street and when I asked for "EKI" I was directed towards a building where trains departed for Kyoto but everything looked strange - it was local train company. Only when I used the magic word SHINKANSEN I was pointed towards the nearby JR station. Next I jumped on a train bound for Tokyo. To travel on a Shinkansen is easy, apart from the comfort and speed you get any information before approaching a stop on a running board and over a loudspeaker in English as well as in Japanese. When Kyoto was not announced as one of the stops I became uneasy and asked fellow passengers. Unfortunately they were all Japanese with not enough knowledge of English to understand my problem. I decided to join the queue ready to get off the train when one of the passengers came forward remembering the word CHANGE. Once on the platform I must have looked quite lost, so an elderly man came to help. Although he himself did not know where the platform for the next train to Kyoto was, he at least could ask properly. He saw me to the train and made sure that everything was right.
Once in Kyoto my next train was a local train to the vicinity. Local trains do not have English announcements but on every station there is a sign in the middle of the platform both in Japanese letters and in Romaji. In the middle of the sign is the name of the station given and in smaller letters either the previous or the next stop in the respective directions. A very clever system unless you sit in a car where you cannot see the sign or in a rapid train which does not stop everywhere. I did not chance it and followed the stops on my map, whereupon I was asked where I would go, with the result that everybody in the car listening knew my destination. This proofed very useful, I would have missed it, had it not been for another passenger shouting with raised voice ARASHIYAMA.

I was glad I knew at least

ARIGATO GOZAIMASU

Himeji

2008-11-28T13:53:00.007Z

Today I was off to Himeji, widely considered to be Japan’s most beautiful of the surviving 12 feudal castles. The Japanese SHIRASAGI-JO, castle of the White Heron, pictures the grand, white-walled main tower as a bird sweeping into the air magnificently – an inspiration to Kurasawa for his film Ra.
It was busy, as one expects and among the other visitors there were groups of young children wearing same-coloured caps. Crossing one of the inner courtyards I noticed Japanese caressing the branches of a cherry tree no longer in bloom. I do not have a head for heights so I only progressed as far inside as to get a feeling for the darkness and steepness of the stairs. Once outside again I took great pleasure listening to the children, rejoicing from the top viewpoint - what a pleasant way to teach the history of your country to kids.

How to learn languages

2008-11-27T20:12:00.008Z

It puzzled me how young Yuhara-san welcomes everyone of his guests with a phrase in their native language. Being asked where he learnt Spanish, French, German as well as English, he replied modestly that he just picks up words occasionally.
I found out how it works after a while. With all his politeness he asked me for the favor of translating EXCUSE ME PLEASE into German. I then presented him with the equivalent expression written down, and read it out for him whereupon he transcribed the words diligently using his more familiar hiragana. After a few corrections we were both satisfied. I would not be surprised if from now on he amazes every German guest with a perfect ENTSCHULDIGEN SIE BITTE.

This is a fine example, although many Japanese are not as fluent in English as we Westerners they try hard to improve their skill with remarkable success

Heian-jinja

2008-11-27T17:39:00.017Z

Small, big, bigger...
(Otoya-jinja, Nanzen-ji, Heian-jinja)

Refreshed, I set out for Heian-jinja, one of Kyoto' s youngest and grandest shrines.
But this was easier said than done... Maps in Japan can be very tricky. Although my maps are in Romaji, this does not help much, most streets are nameless. Counting does not work either, sometimes smaller streets or lanes are just left out. Eventually I had to rely on any passer-by with enough English to put me right. At last I had only to lift my eyes to see the huge vermilion torii majestically towering the surrounding to know my direction.

It was too late in the afternoon to visit the famous gardens- instead I took a stroll around the spacious courtyard with its beautiful buildings of red posts and green tiles, and watched the shadows wandering...

Nanzen-ji

2008-11-27T14:52:00.008Z

I could not possible miss Nanzen-ji the last of the temples along the philosopher's path. Not far from the main road opens its grand wooden Sanmon, a classic "gate less" gate of Zen Buddhism, 27 forested acres of the temple. In the vicinity of the main building, there are many sub temples and pretty gardens and even an aqueduct, unusual for Japan and therefore a popular site for pictures. Although a very important temple, Nanzen-ji is not quite as famous as others, making it a peaceful place to visit.

Nearby I found a restaurant serving YUDOFU, a tofu-specialty of the cuisine of Kyoto. In a ceramic pot (Donabe), placed on a gas stove in front of you, are cubes of white tofu. When boiled for about ten minutes the tofu is dipped in a bowl with finely chopped greens, and in sauce, and then eaten.
Sitting low in a tatami mat room facing a pretty garden, eating Yudofu is very enjoyable.

Otoyo-jinja

2008-11-27T13:56:00.004Z

I found my favourite shrine at last.

As I could not understand the signs along the Shishigatani canal and was misled once or twice I had given up to find any of the mentioned sites. But something aroused my curiosity and let me follow a side lane up the hill and among the many big Buddhist temples of Higashiyama I found one of the few small Shinto shrines.
I spent a lot of time admiring the way nature is interweaving with the man-built grey granite and vermilion wooden structures of this sacred place.

Garden in a frying pan

2008-11-27T13:07:00.007Z

As the opposite to Kinkaku-ji, the Silver Pavilion Ginkaku-ji unfortunately is undergoing extensive restoration I found myself soon strolling along the Philosopher's Path which follows a winding canal at the foot of the Eastern Mountains (Higashiyama).

I missed out on the various temples mentioned in my guidebook, distracted by some picturesque gardens in the residential quarter along the path.

But to create a garden in a frying pan this is Japanese to the bone to me.

Kinkaku-ji

2008-11-27T12:53:00.013Z

I am not usually up early but had to change my habit in Japan, there is so much I want to see before the sun goes down on an autumn afternoon.
In my next day in Kyoto I walked to the station, a hyper modern building with all the facilities you need. Apart from the usual services for travelers you can find here restaurants and a shopping center with a great variety of food and local craft products.
At the ticket office I exchanged my Japan Rail voucher and received all the reservations for my projected journeys, and the tourist office upstairs supplied me with useful information and a day-ticket for local buses.
I wanted to go to Kinkaku-ji, apopular temple to the Northwest of Kyoto, and as all stops were announced both in Japanese and English it was not difficult to get there.
A long winding path guides the crowds through the beautiful gardens, so that you hardly notice how busy the place is. The day was overcast so the Golden Pavilion, exquisitly covered in gold leaf, did not glitter as on a brilliant day but its reflection in the Mirror Pond (Kyoko-chi) was nevertheless splendid.

The Miracle of slippers

2008-11-26T11:16:00.004Z

Entering a Japanese house, one removes the shoes and places them in a shoe-box - very sensible, it keeps the house clean.
At the entrance there are slippers kept ready for you, which you put on but take off if you enter a room with tatami floor. This soon becomes routine.

I would step out and leave my slippers with the toe-part pointing towards the sliding door. Much to my amusement every time I would open my door the shoes have moved into a position ready for me to step in again and walk away…

Oasis

2008-11-26T10:56:00.004Z

On my way to the Ryokan Yuhara I passed Pontocho and other narrow streets of Gion, home to traditional teahouses (ochaya) and Geisha entertainment. As ist was early in the evening it was still quiet apart from vans delivering linen and other goods.
Back in Shimogyo-ku I met the owner of the inn and her son sweeping the lane and chatting away with a neighbour.
The situation of Ryokan Yuhara is idyllic, a rural oasis in the heart of a city of a population of nearly 1,5 Million. The only sounds I noticed were occasionaly the mewing of cats and the chirping of a cricket, a late straggler of summer.
I settled in and took my first Japanese bath and all the stress of the day was washed away...

Repose

2008-11-25T20:43:00.009Z

Away from the hustle and bustle of the crowds I rested for a few minutes on a bench at Maruyama, Kyoto’s most popular Park before moving on to Yasaka Shrine.

The magnificently coloured Shrine was a very quiet place as the afternoon progressed and to watch the few worshippers at prayers gave me a great peace of mind.

Rikshaws

2008-11-25T19:38:00.006Z

Next I followed the stone-paved roads of Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka with their traditional wooden houses now under preservation - all the time carefully watching my steps not to draw any misfortune for the next 2, respective 3 years…
Once down the hill I admired Rickshaw drivers scurrying around with their heavy load.

Maikos ?

2008-11-25T19:01:00.009Z

Kiyomizu-dera is one of the most visited Buddhist temples in Kyoto. It takes its name from the sacred waterfall within the temple. The veranda of the main hall offers impressive views of the city.
At the gate to the temple I saw two young women in bright kimonos. I doubt that they were real Maikos and suspect visitors dressed up for a photoshooting. But still I could see quite a few men and women wearing kimonos in Kyoto supposedly the proper outfit when visiting temples or shrines.

Dango

2008-11-25T18:40:00.012Z

It was too early to check-in. Meanwhile I left my luggage at the Ryokan and was setting out for Higashiyama, the eastern part of Kyoto’s city center. The name means literally Eastern Mountain District and soon I found myself climbing up the slope of Kiyomizuzaka, a narrow road lined with shops on both sides. Some of the vendors raise their voices to draw attraction, others invite you to taste their food, sweet or pickled - and the big crowd of people is moving on slowly.

I tried my first DANGO, dumplings , made from rice flour, on a skewer which are dipped in soy sauce and baked on a kind of barbecue.

Japan at last

2008-11-25T10:29:00.013Z

The Japanese seem to have a liking for uniforms. Not only the bus driver of the limousine bus wore uniform, including cap and white gloves, but also the girl at the ticket machine who helped me to get the ticket for Kyoto, and the luggage handler who stowed my case in the luggage compartment of the bus.
Off we went in bright sunshine on a 105 minute drive to my destination. At first we drove past various parts of the harbour showing a spectrum of goods landed. Meantime I tried to make sense of the signs along the expressway, spelling slowly hiragana and katagana – but had to give up when it came to kanji. Of course you can recognize romaji letters and a mixture of all of them.
Much to my surprise I saw only a few skyscrapers, most of the buildings were moderate some even traditionally built. Here and there in residential areas vegetable gardens caught my eye and also small agricultural plots. One half of the field where some kind of grain had been growing was already harvested and fancy shaped stacks of straw left instead,the other half showed still a variety of greens.
Osaka seemed to be never ending, in fact it was just flowing continuously into the next city.

It was about midday when I finally reached Kyoto and the Ryokan Yuhara, pleasantly situated at a little canal, which runs parallel to the river Kamo.
The Takase, once not as shallow as nowadays continued for many miles and was used by barges to keep up the trade with Osaka and the sea.

Kansai airport

2008-11-25T09:29:00.005Z

After touching down at Kansai airport, being tired and itching to get to Kyoto I did not appreciate the lengthy procedure at immigration and customs office. I was prepared to have my picture and fingerprints taken , but twice while queuing at customs the officer closed the desk just in front of me to search the luggage a passenger more thoroughly. Every time I had to join another queue – at the tail end. The young bio-informatics scientist of Osaka University returning from a congress in Spain, my neighbour on the plane, meantime waited patiently. He had promised to help me to get on the bus, and by doing so he had to get out of his way as he used the train for his destination. This at the very beginning of my trip would be a fine example how helpful the Japanese people were – only the young man was Malaysian. When we exchanged business cards – my first "meishi" – he made me promise to call upon him if I would run into difficulties during my stay in Japan.

Flight to Osaka

2008-11-24T22:20:00.003Z

A difficult start, a 20 Minutes delay caused by thick fog in Munich made me nervous and as the gate for my connecting flight was not announced on the monitor I nearly lost my way in the maze of Frankfurt airport.
At the gate it felt like in a different world. By far most of the passengers were Japanese or Asian – and on average smaller than I.
During the just over 11 hours flight I did not see much, at first we flew in clouds and then into the night, and for most of the time I could only follow the route on the small monitor in front of me.
There was not much space and I did not find any position to sleep comfortably for a length of time. When we passed over Mongolia and I could see the first lights I gave up on sleep altogether. It was almost dawn when we crossed over Beijing where I could make out the big cluster of lights on busy roads and bridges.
Breakfast was served when we flew over impressively shaped mountains of Korea.
But much to my disappointment all of Japan was in clouds when we descended.

Step by step

2008-11-24T12:15:00.007Z

I never thought I would make it in the near future, with 3 children at university or in education money is tied up. But then a little pebble started rolling and the mountain was moving...
Early in June I booked a flight, bought a guidebook and soon realized that 15 days are very short if I wanted to see a little more than the tip of the iceberg. I booked my Ryokan accommodation soon after, which proofed very wise as it can be difficult to get a single room even at the end of the season.
The JNTO Office at Frankfurt was very helpful with any information needed, and as I was going to buy a Japan Rail pass I worked out all my traveldetails beforehand using the JR timetable on the internet. My plan was to stay 3 nights at every place and to go on sightseeing trips from my respective basis.
With all this preliminary work I was well briefed when boarding the plane on the 26th of October.

WHY

2008-11-24T12:01:00.009Z

Why Japan?

As a European of my age and education I had some basic knowledge of Japan, her history, literature and culture, and as an art historian an eye for Japanese art and aesthetics. However many years ago when I watched a retrospective show of Yasujiro Ozu’s films I was fascinated by the way his pictures embody the Japanese concept of Mono No Aware, an awareness of the impermanence of things - and I was hooked at last.

The Japanese society has certainly changed since the 1950s when Ozu created most of his classics, nevertheless I wanted to search for traces of his themes and pictures - some day...